Portable Two-Piece Beach Chair

Lay the two 30" back legs on a flat surface, mark the bottom support location, and attach the first slat and supports with glue and ONE screw per corner.

Work fast here — the single screws are pivots for squaring in the next step, and you want to be done adjusting before the glue tacks up.

Measure both diagonals of the back frame. If one is longer, push those two corners toward each other and re-measure until the diagonals match — that's what square means, no protractor required.

Then add the remaining screws. If you're building the 1x2 lightweight version, pre-drill every one of them; a split leg at this stage means starting over.

Screw the remaining back slats to the frame, keeping the gaps even. Even gaps are the difference between 'handmade' and 'homemade' on a piece this simple.

Flip the assembly and attach the 1x3 back support across the rear face. This closes out the back frame — the slot the seat slides through now exists.

Slide the two 26" seat legs through the back frame opening. This is a FIT step, not a measure step: you want roughly 1/8" of play beside each leg. Too snug? Rotate the 2x2s a quarter turn (they're rarely perfectly square), or round the corners and sand until they slide.

Remember cedar swells when damp — a fit that's snug in the garage is stuck at the beach.

With the seat legs still sitting in the back frame at their working angle, lay the remaining fence picket slats on them, adjust the positions, and screw them down. Fitting the slats in-place like this guarantees the assembled chair's geometry — building the seat flat on a bench does not.

Pull the seat frame out and screw the short support between the legs on the inside — 8" for the 2x2 build, 11" for the 1x2 build.

Reassemble and sit down, gently the first time. The joint tightens under load; if anything creaks, find it now on the driveway rather than later on the sand.