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A normal picture frame hides plywood if it uses it at all; this one is built specifically to show it off. Ripping strips off a sheet of plywood exposes the edge grain — the alternating stripes of veneer layers — and that pattern becomes the entire visual feature of the frame instead of something disguised with edge banding.
Because the striping is the point, plywood choice matters more here than in almost any other project — a cheap sheet with inconsistent veneer thickness looks messy once ripped and mitered, while a good Baltic birch sheet gives clean, even stripes.
Sized here for an 8x10 photo, but the strip-and-rabbet method scales to any frame size — just adjust the miter lengths.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Hardwood plywood (e.g. Baltic birch), partial sheet | 1 sheet |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Glass or plexiglass, 8x10 | 1 each |
| Backing clips | 1 pack |
| Sawtooth hanger | 1 each |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top/bottom frame stripsHardwood plywoodMitered ends; adjust length to your photo size. | 2 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 10" |
| Side frame stripsHardwood plywoodMitered ends; adjust length to your photo size. | 2 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 8" |
Buy 1 board at 8 ft.
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Rip the plywood into strips about 3/4in wide on the table saw — use more strips for a wider frame profile.
Rout or table-saw a rabbet along the inside back edge of each strip, sized to hold your glass and backing thickness.
Miter the strips to length for your chosen photo size.
Glue and clamp the mitered corners together, checking each corner for square before the glue sets.
Drop in the glass, photo, and backing, attach the backing clips, then add a sawtooth hanger to the back.
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