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This piece is built as one module of a larger sectional — the base is a simple 2x4 frame, decked in 2x6 boards with a consistent 1/2" gap for drainage and a clean, deliberate look. Working from the back inward as you attach the decking keeps your gaps consistent across the whole surface instead of compounding a small error board by board.
The back is genuinely open on one end by design, since it's meant to butt up against a neighboring sectional piece. If you're using this as a standalone piece rather than as part of a full sectional, a metal L bracket on the inside of that open end adds real security without changing the look from the outside.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4 board, 96" | 2 each |
| 2x4 board, 10 ft | 1 each |
| 2x6 board, 96" | 9 each |
| 2x6 board, 10 ft | 1 each |
| 2x2 board, 96" | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2" | 40 each |
| Exterior self-tapping screws, 2-1/2" | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
| Metal L bracketsOptional — adds extra security to the open end if not butted against another sectional piece. | 2 each |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Base side rails2x4You most likely won't need to cut these full-length boards. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 96" |
| Base cross members2x4 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 31 1/4" |
| Decking boards2x6You most likely won't need to cut these full-length boards. | 9 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 96" |
| Top cleats2x2 | 6 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 16" |
| Back boards2x6 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 37" |
Some parts are longer than a 8 ft board, so there is no honest board count to show here. Open the board plan to pick a longer stock length — it names every part that does not fit.
2 boards
2 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the base frame from the side rails and cross members. Pocket holes (1-1/2" setting, 2-1/2" pocket-hole screws) work well, or you can countersink 2-1/2" self-tapping exterior screws instead. Use glue throughout and check for square as you go.
If you're using pocket holes, consider also drilling a set facing upward now for attaching the decking boards in the next step — it saves you working underneath later.
Attach the decking boards starting at the back and working inward, leaving a 1/2" gap between each board.
Attach the 2x2 cleats to the top of the decking using the 1-1/2" pocket-hole setting, 2-1/2" pocket-hole screws, and glue.
Attach the back board to both the 2x2 cleat and the 2x6 decking below it. Then split the remaining distance evenly and attach the center back boards.
We felt this back was plenty sturdy as built, but if you're concerned about the open end of the sectional, add a metal L bracket on the inside for extra security.
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