Pallet Cooler Stand

Attach legs to the top boards with 2-1/2" screws, framing nails, or pocket holes driven from the underside (1-1/2" pocket hole setting, 2-1/2" pocket screws). Build two identical leg sets this way.

Attach the 26" support boards to the two leg sets to form the cooler frame, using screws, angled nails, or pocket holes (1-1/2" setting, 2-1/2" pocket screws). Position the bottom boards at a height that will let the actual cooler rest on supports tied into these boards — see the next step.

Attach the bottom support slats to the frame, setting their height so the cooler's top — including whatever decking material covers it — sits flush with the top of the frame. This is worth test-fitting your actual cooler before committing; you may prefer to leave these supports for a later step once you can confirm the fit exactly.

Attach pallet boards (or other reclaimed boards) to the outside faces of the frame with nails and glue — keep nails no longer than 1-1/2" so they don't punch through the often-thinner pallet stock.

Build a 2x4 frame around the cooler's own lid. Attach pallet boards to one face of the frame with glue and smaller nails (under 1-1/2"). Glue the cooler's plastic lid to the wood frame with a polyurethane construction adhesive rated for plastic-to-wood bonding — standard wood glue won't hold this joint.

Set the finished lid assembly on top of the cooler and attach with the hinges. Add a towel hook or bottle opener to the outside if you'd like the extra function.