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This bench is built from two-piece laminated legs — a wider 1x3 and a narrower 1x2 screwed face to face — which gives each leg a stepped profile that the front, back, and side slats key into, keeping every rail's face flush without extra layout work. Consistent 1/2" gaps between every slat, on the sides, bottom, and lid alike, are what make the whole piece read as one considered design instead of a plain box, so it's worth taking the extra minute to use a scrap spacer instead of eyeballing each gap.
The lid lifts straight off for full access to the storage below — no hinges needed if you're pairing this with the companion wall panel system, since the bench sits against the panel with no room for hinges to swing. Building it as a standalone bench instead, add hinges if you'd like that convenience. Finish each board individually before final assembly if you can; it's much easier to get an even coat into every crack before the pieces are screwed together than after.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x3 board, 8 ft | 10 each |
| 1x2 board, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 80 each |
| Exterior wood screws, 1-1/4" | 10 each |
| Wood glue | 8 oz |
| Wood filler | 1 each |
| Outdoor paint, stain, or sealer | 1 quart |
| Hinges, 2 countOnly needed if using the bench on its own, away from the wall panel system. | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Wide leg pieces1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16 3/4" |
| Narrow leg pieces1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 3/4" |
| Front and back rails1x3 | 10 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Side rails1x3 | 10 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 13" |
| Bottom boards1x3 | 10 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" |
| Lid sides1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 17 1/2" |
| Lid slats1x3 | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Lid supports1x3 | 3 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
Buy 11 boards at 8 ft.
10 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach one wide leg piece to one narrow leg piece, drilling through the wide piece into the side of the narrow one. Use 1-1/4" screws and glue, keeping the pieces flush at the top, bottom, and down the side. Repeat to build all four legs.
Use five front/back rails to connect two legs, turning the legs so the wide piece faces forward and the narrow piece faces the side. The top rail sits flush with the top of the legs; the remaining rails get a 1/2" gap between them, leaving 2-1/4" of open space at the bottom. Keep all rails flush with the front of the legs, drill pocket holes on the back of each rail, and attach with pocket-hole screws and glue. Repeat to build the back section.
Use five side rails to connect one end of the front and back sections, lining them up flush with the top, with a 1/2" gap between boards and 2-1/4" of open space at the bottom, matching the front and back. Attach with pocket holes on the back of the rails. Repeat for the other end.
Turn the bench upside down. Attach the bottom boards with pocket holes drilled in what is currently their top face (the bottom, once you flip the bench back over). Start with a board flush against one side, then leave a 1/2" gap between each subsequent board, which will leave a matching 1/2" gap at the far end.
Use the lid slats to connect the two lid sides, drilling pocket holes in the underside of each slat. The front and back slats sit flush with the ends of the side boards; the rest get an even 1/2" gap between them.
Add the lid support boards to keep the lid from shifting when it's set on the bench. Attach one support at each end, leaving 1" of space around the top, bottom, and outside edge, using glue and 1-1/4" screws driven into both the side board and each slat. Center the third support 11" from each outside support, with 1" of clearance above and below it.
If you're setting the bench against the wall panel system, just set the finished lid on top — lift it off or tip it back to reach the storage inside. If using the bench on its own, add the hinges now if you'd like the lid to stay attached.
It's best to finish each board individually before assembly. Use an outdoor paint or stain with an outdoor-rated poly or sealer. If you finished the boards ahead of time, fill the pocket holes with wood filler, sand smooth, and touch up the finish on those spots. If you waited until now, fill the holes, sand everything, and paint or stain the whole piece, working the finish well into every gap.
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