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This is one of the more approachable outdoor tables in the catalog — nine 1x3 boards joined edge to edge with breadboard ends capping the grain, resting on a simple 2x2 box-and-leg frame. Both pocket holes and plain countersunk screws work throughout, so it's a reasonable build for someone without a pocket-hole jig yet.
The base sits centered under the top with a 1" reveal on all sides, which is enough to read as an intentional design choice rather than the base just being slightly too small. Get that gap even before you commit to final screws — it's the one thing anyone looking at the finished table will notice first.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ftUse an exterior-rated species or treat/seal for outdoor use. | 5 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 2-1/2" wood screws or pocket hole screws | 1 box |
| Wood glue, exterior-rated | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boardsPine 1x3 | 9 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 43" |
| Breadboard endsPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24 1/2" |
| Side apronsPine 2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 43" |
| SupportsPine 2x2 | 5 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| LegsPine 2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/4" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
5 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
This build works with either a pocket-hole jig (set for 1-1/2" stock) or plain countersunk screws. Mark and predrill all your joints now, whichever method you're using, before starting assembly.
Build two leg sections from the 2x2 legs and supports with 2-1/2" screws and glue.
Attach the two leg sections to the side aprons to complete the base, adjusting for square before the fasteners are fully driven.
If you're not using a pocket-hole jig, attach the breadboard ends first with 2" finish nails and glue — overhang the ends by an inch, with the inside face flush to the leg section.
If using pocket holes, drill them in all the tabletop boards (set for 3/4" stock) and attach to the breadboard ends with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue, keeping the top surface flush. If you already attached the breadboard ends by hand, fasten the remaining tabletop boards to them the same way.
Center the base on the underside of the finished tabletop with a 1" gap around all sides. Screw the base to the top with 2" screws and glue.
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