NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
Six 10-foot 2x4s, three distinct cut lengths, one chair. This design gets furniture out of framing lumber by repetition: ten pieces at 25-1/2", ten at 24", two at 28-1/2", assembled into two arm frames, a seat frame, and slats. The proportions are sized to standard deep-seat outdoor cushions — check YOUR cushion width before cutting the slats, because 'width of cushions' is literally the spec in the source cut list.
What this plan really teaches is screw craft. The seat frame joins to the arms with four screws per side, spaced as far apart as possible and driven at opposing angles — maximum leverage, joints that resist racking. Where a pocket hole jig would go, the plan gives the hand technique instead: start the screw nearly perpendicular about 1" from the end, then tip to 45° once it bites and drive it home into the meeting board. Learn that move and half the jigs in the catalog become optional.
Pre-stain or paint the boards before assembly — twenty slat faces and gaps are no fun to brush afterward. Build two chairs and the sofa from the same collection, and the patio's done.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 10 ft10-footers cut cleanly into four 23-3/4" slats — the plan's own efficiency tip. | 6 each |
| Construction screws, #9 x 2-3/4", star drive, exterior | 75 each |
| Exterior stain or paintPre-finish the boards before assembly. Partial quart per chair. | 1 quart |
| Outdoor deep-seat cushion setBuy or measure FIRST — the slat length is cut to the cushion width. Not in the cost estimate. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs, arms, and frame pieces | 10 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 25 1/2" |
| Arm rests | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/2" |
| Seat and back slatsOr the width of your cushions. Cut at 23-3/4" to get four per 10-foot board. | 10 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 24" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
8 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach an arm rest across two legs with the 2-3/4" screws, two per joint. Build two identical frames — clamp them together and compare before moving on.
Screw the middle support between the legs of each arm frame per the diagram. This rail is what the seat frame lands on, so its height sets your seat height — check it against the cushion stack you're planning.
Add the second middle support directly underneath the first — two screws per end, plus two driven down from the top edge of the upper board into it. The doubled rail turns a shelf into a beam.
Assemble the seat frame rectangle with 2-3/4" screws, two per end. Square it by matching diagonals.
Fasten the seat frame between the two arm assemblies with four screws per side — spread as far apart as the joint allows, top/bottom and end to end, and drive them at slightly different angles. Wide spacing resists the pry; opposing angles resist the pull. This joint carries the sitter, so give it all four screws.
Pocket holes shine here if you have the jig. If not, use the plan's hand technique: start each screw nearly perpendicular about 1" from the board end, and once the threads bite, tip the driver to 45° and finish into the meeting board. Two screws per end, lower support first so the drill still fits in the opening.
Lay out the slats with even spacing and screw down, two screws per end. Sand, touch up the finish on cut ends, drop the cushions in, and go test the recline with something cold.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.