One Sheet of Plywood Hall Tree

Rip two strips 8 ft long by 15-3/4" wide. Cross-cut 38" off one of those strips. Rip the remaining strip and the 38" piece into 7-3/4"-wide strips for the hutch parts. If you don't have a table saw, use a straightedge or guide with a circular saw for accurate rip cuts.

Plan the full cut sequence before starting — you can't mark every cut ahead of time, since the blade's kerf consumes real material with each pass.

Measure and mark the joint locations with a square, then attach with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Mark the cubby divider locations with a square and attach with countersunk screws this time, rather than pocket holes.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the top edge and ends of the footer pieces. Attach inset slightly from the base's front edge. Alternatively, attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Attach the remaining trim boards under the bench with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Build the hutch case with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Attach the dividers, cut to fit your actual hutch opening (about 33" long).

Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the ends and bottom edge of the back header, and attach the same way as the bench footer.

Attach the back panel with glue and nails.

Mount the hutch shelves on shelf pins for adjustability. Attach a 1x3 hook mounting rail to the back underside of each shelf so hooks travel with the shelf if it's ever repositioned. Add hooks to the rails.

Attach the caster wheels to the base of the bench.