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Nightstand with Drawer — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.

3/4" × 11"

1 board · 0.7 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 13% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 83 7/8" left over

    1. Drawer Bottom — 11"

3/4" × 5"

2 boards · 3.4 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 61% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 4 1/4" left over

    1. Top Board — 17"
    2. Top Board — 17"
    3. Top Board — 17"
    4. Side Rail — 13"
    5. Side Rail — 13"
    6. Back Rail — 13"

  2. Board 2 · 69 3/4" left over

    1. Back Rail — 13"
    2. Drawer Front — 12"

3/4" × 1"

2 boards · 1.0 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 85% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 14 1/2" left over

    1. Leg — 20"
    2. Leg — 20"
    3. Leg — 20"
    4. Leg — 20"

  2. Board 2 · 14 1/2" left over

    1. Leg — 20"
    2. Leg — 20"
    3. Leg — 20"
    4. Leg — 20"

1/2" × 3"

1 board · 0.6 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 49% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 48 1/2" left over

    1. Drawer Box Side — 12"
    2. Drawer Box Side — 12"
    3. Drawer Box Front/Back — 11"
    4. Drawer Box Front/Back — 11"

1/2" × 2"

1 board · 0.2 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 28% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 68 3/4" left over

    1. Drawer Slide Spacer — 13"
    2. Drawer Slide Spacer — 13"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.