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The tabletop is intentionally never fastened at its center — every board attaches only at its ends, both in the top-down screw pattern and again from underneath into the tabletop supports. Solid wood expands and contracts across its width with humidity, and a center screw would be fighting that movement directly, eventually splitting the board or tearing the screw loose. Working from the middle boards outward when driving screws from underneath keeps any small gaps between boards even rather than pushed to one side.
The tapered legs are simple, straight-line cuts, not curves — starting 5-1/2" down from the top and tapering in by 1" at the bottom. Doing this on a straightedge guide rather than freehand is what keeps all four legs matching.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 8 ft | 4 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 10 ft | 2 each |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2" | 1 box |
| Wood screws, 2" | 1 box |
| Wood screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Wood filler | 1 can |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Table end legsPine 1x3Tapered starting 5-1/2" from the top, in 1" at the bottom. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Table side legsPine 1x4Tapered the same way as the end legs. | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Side apronsPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 88" |
| End apronsPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
| End stretchersPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
| Under-tabletop supportsPine 2x2 | 8 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
| Tabletop boardsPine 1x8 | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 88" |
Buy 14 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
4 boards
3 boards
2 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Taper the end leg pieces in a straight line, starting 5-1/2" from the top and tapering in 1" at the bottom. Do this on all four end legs.
Taper the side legs the same way you tapered the end legs.
Assemble the legs, paying attention to position — the 1x3 leg pieces go on the ends of the table, the 1x4 leg pieces go on the sides.
Fasten the side aprons in place, checking the legs for square as you go.
Fasten the end aprons and end stretchers in place the same way.
Attach the under-tabletop support pieces to the apron assembly.
Find the center of the table and use it to place your first tabletop board. Attach each board only at its ends — never in the center, since solid wood needs room to move with humidity across its width. Attach the remaining tabletop boards the same way, ends only.
From underneath, fasten through the under-tabletop supports into the tabletop boards. Start with the middle boards and work outward, minimizing gaps between boards. Predrill and countersink your screws. Simpson strong-tie corner brackets can add extra strength if desired.
Sand every surface and finish.
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