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At roughly 11" deep, this dresser is built for rooms where a standard 16"-20"-deep dresser just won't fit — a narrow hallway, a small bedroom, a spot beside a doorway. The 1x12 sides keep the depth honest instead of forcing plywood into a width it wasn't meant for.
The stile spacing is the one measurement worth double- and triple-checking: the plan calls for exactly 7-1/2" between the two vertical 1x2 stiles so the drawer faces land right, and that number is unforgiving — get it wrong and every one of the four drawer faces above it inherits the mistake. The drawers themselves sit inset, so remember to install the slides 3/4" back from the face of the dresser to leave room for it.
The decorative arch cut into the bottom front trim is optional and purely cosmetic — skip it for a plainer look with zero structural consequence.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 12" bottom-mount drawer slides, pair | 4 pair |
| Drawer knobs or handles | 8 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ftLegs. | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x12, 10 ftSides and top. | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, 4x8 sheetBack and drawer bottoms. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ftDrawer box sides. | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 12 ftDrawer faces. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, assorted | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPine 1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 35 1/2" |
| Side trim, bottomPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Side trim, topPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| LegsPine 2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 39" |
| Front/back railsPine 1x3One with an optional decorative arch cut into it. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 31" |
| Face frame stilesPine 1x2Space exactly 7-1/2" apart so drawer faces fit correctly. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 31" |
| Back1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 35 1/2" × 34" |
| Top trimPine 1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 36" |
| TopPine 1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 36" |
| Top front trimPine 1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 36" |
| Drawer box sidesPine 1x6 | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 28 1/2" |
| Drawer box fronts/backsPine 1x6 | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 12 1/2" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood | 4 | 1/4" × 30" × 12 1/2" |
| Drawer facesPine 1x8 | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 30 3/4" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
2 boards
2 boards
Attach the 1x3 trim to the bottom and the 1x2 trim to the top of both side panels with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Attach the legs to both sides, using either 3" screws countersunk or pocket holes set for 3/4" stock with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Attach the front and back 1x3 rails flush to the outsides of the sides. If you're adding the optional decorative arch, cut it into the bottom front rail with a jigsaw before attaching.
Attach the two 1x2 stiles carefully — leave exactly 7-1/2" between them so the drawer faces fit correctly. This measurement matters more than almost any other in the build.
If you have a pocket-hole jig, build the top assembly with pocket holes and attach it to the dresser. Otherwise, attach support cleats first, then attach the top pieces with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue. Overhang the top 1" on the front and sides.
Build the four drawer boxes and nail the plywood bottoms in place. Install using drawer slides — since the drawer faces sit inset, install the slides 3/4" back from the face of the dresser.
With all drawers installed, lay the dresser on its back. Center each drawer face on its box with an even 1/8" gap on all sides, and attach with a few 1-1/4" finish nails and glue — keep an eye on where your hardware will go so you don't nail through a knob location. Once faces are set, pull the drawers back out and reinforce from the inside with 1-1/4" fasteners, then add the hardware.
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4 boards
2 boards
2 boards
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →