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This end table is built back-first, then front, then the sides — an order chosen so you can still get a drill into every joint for pocket holes before the box closes up. Both the end apron and front aprons need to be cut to the actual width of your own 1x10s, not the plan's stated 9-1/4" — dimensional lumber varies board to board, and a drawer box built to the wrong width won't run true.
If you don't have a pocket-hole jig, predrilled countersunk screws and glue from the outside of the legs work just as well, just take extra care to check for square after every step — an out-of-square box is the single most common reason a drawer won't fit right. Attach the drawer slides to the side aprons before attaching those aprons to the front and back if you're working with a drill that needs more clearance than the assembled box allows.
The top can be pocket-holed directly to the legs, or — without a jig — supported on 2x2 blocking and attached with nails from the top or screws from underneath. Fit the drawer box to the slides last, with the slide bottoms set 2" up from the apron bottoms, then cut the drawer face for an even 1/8" gap all around before screwing it on from inside the box.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x10, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x4, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1x3, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1x2, 2 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, quarter sheet (drawer box) | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 40 each |
| Self-tapping wood screws, 2-1/2" | 12 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Drawer slides, 16 in, pair | 1 set |
| Knob or handle | 1 each |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top1x10, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 24" |
| Top trim1x3, 4 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24" |
| Sides1x10, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 19" |
| End apron (back)1x10, 8 ftCut to the actual width of your 1x10s. | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 9 1/4" |
| Front aprons1x2, 2 ftCut to the actual width of your 1x10s. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
| Legs2x2, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 24" |
| Top support blocking (no pocket jig)2x2, 8 ft | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
| Drawer box sides1/4" plywood, quarter sheet (drawer box) | 2 | 1/4" × 5" × 16" |
| Drawer box front/back1/4" plywood, quarter sheet (drawer box) | 2 | 1/4" × 5" × 8 3/4" |
| Drawer bottom1/4" plywood, quarter sheet (drawer box) | 1 | 1/4" × 8 3/4" × 16" |
| Drawer face1x4, 4 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 5" × 9" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
Build the back of the table first, using pocket holes or predrilled countersunk screws and glue. Cut the end apron to the actual width of your 1x10s.
Build the front using the front apron pieces, cut to the actual width of your 1x10s. Predrill from the outside of the legs if not using pocket holes.
Attach the sides to the front and back. Consider attaching the drawer slides to the side aprons first if your drill needs more clearance.
Attach the top with pocket holes, or with 2x2 blocking and nails from the top or screws from underneath.
Install the drawer slides with the fronts starting at the legs and the slide bottoms 2" up from the apron bottoms. Build and fit the drawer box.
Cut the drawer face to fit with an even 1/8" gap on all sides. Attach from inside the drawer box with screws or finish nails.
Sand all surfaces, apply primer and paint or stain and poly, and add the knob or handle.
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1 board
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →