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The original version of this design stands on welded 3/4" square steel tubing, which gives it a very thin, almost floating-looking base — a look this catalog's tool list can't reproduce, since welding isn't among the tools covered here. The source itself offers the fix: the same base can be built from wood, using 2x2s or hardwood 1x1 stock in place of the tubing, and that's the version authored here. The plywood carcass on top — sides, shelf, divider, hinged door — is identical either way.
If you do have welding equipment and want the original metal-base look, the plywood case above still applies unchanged; only the base construction differs. For the wood base shown here, keep the frame's proportions slim (1x1 or 2x2, not thicker) to preserve the light, low-profile stance that's the point of this design — a chunky base would fight the whole aesthetic.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheetRipped into three 15-3/4"-wide strips. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", cut to 52" x 17-1/2" | 1 each |
| Pine or hardwood, 2x2 or 1x1, 24 ft totalWood base substitute for the original welded 3/4" square steel tubing. | 24 ft |
| Hinges | 1 pair |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 4 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPlywood | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 52" |
| ShelvesPlywood | 4 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 16" |
| DividerPlywood | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 33 3/4" |
| Back panel1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 52" × 17 1/2" |
| DoorPlywood | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 16 3/4" |
| Base legsPine or hardwood | 4 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 6" |
| Base short railsPine or hardwood | 4 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 14 1/4" |
| Base long railsPine or hardwood | 4 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 50 1/2" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
4 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the basic box frame for the console using the plywood sides, shelves, and divider. Use a pocket hole jig with the 3/4" setting and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws — with no face frame to reinforce these joints, use three pocket holes per joint for this width of board.
Add shelves as desired with pocket holes. A shelf-pin jig lets you make the shelves adjustable instead, if preferred.
Attach the back panel with glue and 3/4" brad nails or staples, securing it to every fixed shelf as well as the sides.
Hang the door with your chosen hinges. Joining a few 1x boards together with a pocket hole jig is a good way to build a solid door if you don't want to use a single plywood panel.
Build a slim rectangular frame from 2x2 or hardwood 1x1 stock as a substitute for the original design's welded steel tubing — keep the stock thin to preserve the low, light stance that's the whole point of this design. Join the frame with glue and screws, checking for square.
Attach the console to the underside of the base frame with 1-1/4" screws — pocket hole screws work fine for this. Sand every surface and finish.
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