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The legs on this chair are the whole design — each one is cut with a compound angle (a 10° miter combined with a 5° bevel) so the chair stands with a confident outward splay instead of straight up and down. Cut one end of the board, then slide down the board and cut again, repeating down the length rather than measuring and cutting each leg separately — that keeps every leg's angle identical, which matters more here than on a square-legged chair where a small mismatch would be easy to hide.
The seat back gets a beveled top edge, rounded corners from a jigsaw, and a thumb hole for easy carrying — small details that turn a basic seat into something that reads as genuinely designed rather than just functional.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12 board, 2 ft | 1 each |
| 1x3 board, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 20 each |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4" | 10 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs1x3Long point to short point; ends parallel; 10° miter combined with a 5° bevel. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Side aprons1x3Long point to long point; both ends cut at a 10° miter. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 7" |
| Front and back aprons1x3Short point to short point; both ends cut at a 5° miter. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12 1/2" |
| Seat1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 14" |
| Seat back1x12One end cut at a 10° bevel. | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 6" |
Buy 2 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Set your saw to a 10° miter and a 5° bevel. Cut one end of a 1x3, as close to the end of the board as possible while still getting the angle. Slide the board down 13-1/2" (long point to short point) and cut — that's one leg. Keep sliding and cutting until you have all four legs.
Reset the saw to a 10° miter with no bevel and cut the side aprons the same sliding way, flipping the board and measuring 7" long point to long point for the second cut.
Drill two pocket holes in each end of the side aprons. Lay a pair of legs down with a side apron between them, pocket holes facing up — the legs sit flush to the top of the apron on the outside edge but extend slightly past it on the inside edge. Attach with 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws and glue. Build two leg sets this way, one per side.
Set the saw for a 5° miter and cut the front and back aprons. Drill pocket holes and attach them between the two leg sets, keeping the apron flush with the tops of the legs — it should never extend above them.
Attach the seat to the top of the leg and apron assembly with pocket-hole screws or wood screws and glue.
Set the saw for a 5° bevel and cut the seat back. Round its corners with a jigsaw and drill a thumb hole with a 1" hole saw (or a smaller drill bit if you don't have one). Sand all the rough edges smooth, then attach the seat back to the seat with wood screws and glue.
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