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Most decorative birdhouses are built for the porch, not the bird — elaborate rooflines and gingerbread trim that a cavity-nesting bird doesn't care about and a predator can perch on. This one goes the other direction: six flat cedar panels, square edges, and a small overhang on three sides for weather. It's a genuinely good beginner box-building project specifically because there's no angle anywhere in it — every cut is a straight crosscut.
The whole birdhouse comes from HALF of one cedar fence picket, resawn or planed down to 1/2" thick — considerably thinner than a picket's rough 5/8"-3/4" as-sold thickness, which is what gives this design its clean, modern proportions instead of the chunky look a full-thickness picket produces. If you don't have a way to resaw stock that thin, a table saw with the fence set carefully or a hand plane both get there; it's worth doing rather than skipping, since the wall thickness is a visible part of the design.
Assembly order matters for keeping the reveals even: sides to the front first, then the top and bottom onto that sub-assembly with all back edges kept flush — the overhang lands automatically at about 1/4" on the front and both sides, with no overhang at all on the back, which is what lets the house sit flush against a post or tree without a gap. The back goes on last, after which the entrance hole and a hanging hole both get cut through it.
Skip a perch on the front — cavity nesters like chickadees and wrens don't use one, and an unused perch is just a better foothold for anything trying to raid the nest.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Cedar fence picket, resawn to 1/2" thickOnly half a picket is used — the other half covers a second birdhouse. | 1 each |
| Exterior fasteners, 1-1/4" nails or screws | 20 each |
| Exterior wood glue | 1 oz |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top and bottomCedar fence picket | 2 | 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 5 1/2" |
| SidesCedar fence picket | 2 | 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 4 3/4" |
| FrontCedar fence picket | 1 | 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 5" |
| BackCedar fence picketExtends past the box for mounting — the entrance and hanging holes go through this piece. | 1 | 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 8 1/2" |
Buy 1 board at 8 ft.
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach the two side panels to the front panel with exterior glue and fasteners, forming a three-sided open box.
Keep the back edges flush and attach the top and bottom panels to the sides and front. The overhang works out to about 1/4" on the front and both sides, with no overhang on the back — that's what lets the finished house sit flush against a mounting post.
Attach the back panel to the main house assembly, then cut the entrance hole (sized to the species you're hoping to attract — 1-1/8" for chickadees and wrens is a common size) and a hanging hole through the extended top of the back panel.
Skip adding a perch — cavity-nesting birds don't use one, and it only gives predators an easier foothold.
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