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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Cut the 1x2s and 1x6s to the width of your 1x12 boards and attach them to the sides with glue and finish nails. Drill your pocket holes into the insides of these boards now — you'll need them on the outside edges (not top and bottom) to attach the front and back trim later. Build two side assemblies.
Measure 5-1/2" up from the bottom and attach the bottom shelf using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1-1/4" pocket screws.
Build two face frames and attach them to the front and back using the pocket holes you pre-drilled in the sides (3/4" stock, 1-1/4" screws). Attach the front face frame with an even 1/8" gap on the top and both sides.
Attach the top with glue and 1-1/4" finish nails. Then attach the bottom trim with a 1/8" gap on the bottom, using pocket holes on the underside and glue.
Attach the back with glue and 1-1/4" finish nails. Nail the base moulding to the front — if you can't find stainable 5-1/4" moulding, use shorter moulding and fill with scrap 1x to make up the height.
Cut the grid notches half-depth into the plywood strips, each notch exactly the width of the plywood's thickness so the strips interlock snugly. A table saw with the fence set to each mark is cleanest. Without one, drill 1/4" holes at the end of each mark (add 1/8" so the hole centers on the cut) and finish with a jigsaw or circular saw. Mark one board of each size, clamp all same-size boards together aligned, and cut them as a stack — then touch up the bottom boards, since a circular saw's round blade cuts them shorter than the top.
Slot the grid strips together — once assembled they interlock tight and square with no glue, held in place by the cabinet. Build the drawer, hang it on the 12" slides, and fit the drawer face with an even gap. Add the knob, sand, and finish or stain.