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This nightstand is built the way a lot of mid-century case pieces are: plywood panels for the box, thin 1x2 trim wrapping every visible edge so no raw plywood ever shows, and a drawer that rides on cheap Euro corner-mount slides instead of anything fancier. The trim is doing real aesthetic work — it's what turns a plywood box into something with a finished, furniture-grade edge.
The drawer face is the one clever detail: rip the top edge at an angle rather than leaving it square, and that bevel becomes a built-in finger pull with no hardware to buy or install. It's a small table-saw operation that replaces a knob entirely.
Build the drawer box to the actual dimensions of the slides you bought, not to a number on this page — the front and back should measure 2-1/2" less than the opening, assuming your slides need 1/2" clearance per side, but confirm that against your specific hardware before cutting. Set the drawer face with a consistent 1/8" gap on all visible sides, which is what makes a plywood drawer read as considered rather than improvised.
One assembly trick worth keeping: leave the top panel unattached until the very end. A separable top is much easier to finish properly — brush every surface, including the underside — than a top that's already screwed down with three sides boxed in around it.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, ripped to 15-1/2" wideSide panels, top, and shelf. | 8 linear ft |
| 1x2, 8 ftEdge trim throughout. | 3 each |
| 1x6, 8 ftDrawer sides, front, and back. | 1 each |
| 1x10, 24"Drawer face. | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood16" x 23" — drawer bottom. | 1 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 5/8" | 60 each |
| Euro drawer slides, 16", bottom corner mount | 1 set |
| Wood glue and finishing supplies | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side panels3/4" plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Top and shelf3/4" plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 25 1/2" |
| Drawer slide spacers1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10" |
| Top and bottom trim (rails)1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27" |
| Vertical trim (stiles)1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
| Side trim (side rails)1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Inside cleats1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 4" |
| Drawer sides1x6Match this to your actual drawer slide length. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16" |
| Drawer front and back1x6Measure and cut to fit — 2-1/2" less than your drawer opening, assuming 1/2" clearance per side on your slides. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Drawer bottom1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 16" × 23" |
| Drawer face1x10Rip the top edge at an angle on the table saw — this bevel becomes the finger pull. | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 22 3/4" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
On each side panel, attach 1x2 trim with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue, keeping the outside edges perfectly flush to the panel edges. Do this on both side panels.
Attach the bottom 1x2 rail to both side panels with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. Measure and cut the vertical trim to fit, then attach the same way.
Trim the sides of the top panel with the 15-1/2" side rails, then trim the front and back with 1-1/4" brad nails.
Attach the inside cleats with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. Set the finished top panel on the base for now, without securing it — it's much easier to finish properly while it's still removable.
Attach the drawer slides to the 10"-long 1x2 spacers.
Build the drawer box to fit your actual hardware: sides match your slide length exactly (16" for the slides called out here), and the front and back measure 2-1/2" less than the drawer opening, assuming 1/2" clearance per side. Assemble with 1-1/4" brad nails, the bottom with 5/8" brads. Test the slide action and adjust the hardware as needed.
Set the middle shelf on top of the 1x2 rails and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails.
Set the drawer face on the drawer box with an even 1/8" gap on the sides and bottom, and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails. Further secure from inside with 1-1/4" screws.
Rip the top edge of the drawer face at an angle on the table saw before final attachment — that bevel is the finger pull, so no hardware is needed.
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3 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →