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This table builds its top from ordinary 1x6 boards edge-joined with pocket holes rather than glued panel stock or thick 2x planks — a genuinely different material approach that keeps the table light while still reading as a solid plank top. Bring your boards into a dry, humidity-controlled environment for several days before starting — the plan states this as a real requirement, not a suggestion, since 1x stock straight from a lumberyard or big-box store can carry enough moisture to shrink and gap the tabletop joints after assembly.
Join seven of the eight tabletop boards with pocket holes along one edge, clamped flat and flush at one end, leaving any length discrepancies at the other end to trim off once the whole top is assembled — trying to get eight individual boards to an exact final length before joining is harder than joining first and trimming the assembled panel to one clean edge after.
The apron is 1x3 stock mitered at 45° at the corners, and the plan deliberately leaves the corners unglued in case the tabletop itself expands or contracts with seasonal humidity — a small design choice that trades a slightly less rigid corner for a table that won't crack its apron trim over a few years of use. Legs build from a 1x6 and a 1x8 laminated together, and the leg support pieces get measured and cut to fit the actual assembled leg width rather than to a fixed plan number.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x6, 10 ft, kiln dried | 8 each |
| 1x8, 10 ft, kiln dried | 2 each |
| 1x3, 8 ft | 5 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 125 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 5 oz |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boards1x6, 10 ft, kiln dried | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 77" |
| Legs, 1x6 half1x6, 10 ft, kiln dried | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Legs, 1x8 half1x8, 10 ft, kiln dried | 8 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 29 1/2" |
| Apron sides1x3, 8 ftLongest point, both ends cut 45° bevel, ends not parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 76" |
| Apron ends1x3, 8 ftLongest point, both ends cut 45° bevel, ends not parallel. Measure and cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 43 1/2" |
| Inner supports1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 74 1/2" |
| Leg supports1x3, 8 ftCut to 6" wider than assembled leg width. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 14" |
Buy 19 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
11 boards
5 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Bring all boards into a dry, humidity-controlled environment for several days before beginning to build.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes in seven of the eight tabletop boards, spaced 8-10" apart on the less favorable side. Clamp and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, keeping boards flush at one end. Once joined, measure 76" from the straight end and cut the other end down to length.
Cut the side aprons to match the tabletop length at the longest point, beveled 45°, and attach with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Measure, fit, and cut the end aprons, then attach. Leave the mitered corners unglued to allow for seasonal movement.
Laminate a 1x6 and a 1x8 together per leg with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue, or with pocket holes on the inside face and brad nails and glue on the outside face to hide fasteners.
Measure and cut the leg support pieces to 6" wider than your assembled leg width. Attach the legs and inner supports to the apron and tabletop assembly.
Sand all surfaces and apply primer and paint, or stain and poly.
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