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This is a farmhouse nightstand scaled down deliberately — the whole footprint is built around a single 1x12 side panel, so the table stays small enough for a tight bedroom corner without sacrificing the one thing a nightstand really needs: a drawer. The side panels get trimmed first, on the bench, before they ever meet the legs — building trim onto a flat panel first is far more accurate than trying to trim a panel that's already boxed into a leg frame.
The drawer bottom is a deliberate cost-saver: rather than buying separate stock for it, the plan reuses another 1x12, keeping the whole materials list to a handful of board types you're already buying for the rest of the table. Set the drawer slides so the drawer sits about 1/8" proud, then adjust until it moves easily — and the plan's own tip is worth taking seriously: a light rub of candle wax on the slide contact points measurably improves how a drawer glides, for the cost of nothing.
The optional 1/4" plywood back isn't just a design nicety; it's what stiffens a frame this size against the wobble a nightstand takes from someone reaching over for their phone every morning. Skip it only if the table will sit flush against a wall its whole life.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12, 4 ftSides, bottom shelf, and the drawer bottom. | 1 each |
| 1x2, 6 ftSide and shelf trim. | 1 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs, side stretchers, and front trim. | 2 each |
| 1x6, 8 ftTop and drawer front/sides. | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood or panelingOptional back panel. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" and 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Drawer slides | 1 set |
| Brad nails and wood glue | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Sides1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 8 3/4" |
| Side trim1x2Match to the actual width of your 1x12. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 26 1/4" |
| Side stretchers2x2Same width as your 1x12s. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Front/back trim2x2 | 6 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 10 3/4" |
| Back panel1/4" plywood or panelingOptional. | 1 | 1/4" × 13 3/4" × 8 1/2" |
| Top1x6 | 3 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| Drawer front and back1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 10 1/2" |
| Drawer sides1x6Matches the width of your 1x12s. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Drawer bottom1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 9" × 11 1/4" |
| Bottom shelf1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 13 3/4" |
| Bottom shelf trim1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10 3/4" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
Attach the 1x2 trim to the side 1x12 pieces using a nailer from the inside, which keeps nail holes hidden. Use 1-1/4" nails and glue. Do this for both sides.
Attach the legs to the trimmed side panels with a pocket-hole jig set for 1-1/2" pocket holes on 2x2-to-2x2 joints and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. For any joints involving the 1x boards, switch to the 3/4" setting with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Do this for both sides.
Connect the two side assemblies together with the front and back trim boards.
Attach the optional 1/4" plywood back panel with nails and glue — it stiffens the frame considerably against the daily reach-over wobble a nightstand takes.
Build the drawer box. The bottom is just another piece of 1x12, which keeps the materials list simple — attach it on the underside with 3/4" pocket holes, 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, and glue.
Install the drawer slides so the drawer face sits down about 1/8" from the case front, leaving an even gap on all sides. Adjust the slides until the drawer moves easily — a light rub of candle wax on the contact points noticeably improves the glide.
Trim out the front of the table with the remaining 2x2 stock.
Build the top and the bottom shelf the same way, with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach the bottom shelf on top of its stretchers. Sand and finish the whole table.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →