Easy-Build Lemonade Stand — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.

3/4" × 11 1/4" — 1x12

1 board · 6.2 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 97% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 2 3/4" left over
46"46"
1. Counter and shelf — 46"
2. Counter and shelf — 46"

3/4" × 2 1/2" — 1x3 furring strip

2 boards · 1.8 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 64% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 34 7/8" left over
60"
1. Sign legs — 60"
Board 2 · 34 7/8" left over
60"
1. Sign legs — 60"

5/8" × 5 1/2" — Fence picket

4 boards · 9.0 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 87% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 1 5/8" left over
46"23 1/2"23 1/2"
1. Sign board — 46"
2. End boards — 23 1/2"
3. End boards — 23 1/2"
Board 2 · 1/2" left over
23 1/2"23 1/2"23 1/2"23 1/2"
1. End boards — 23 1/2"
2. End boards — 23 1/2"
3. Front cladding — 23 1/2"
4. Front cladding — 23 1/2"
Board 3 · 1/2" left over
23 1/2"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.

3/4" × 11 1/4" — 1x12

Board 1 · 2 3/4" left over

3/4" × 2 1/2" — 1x3 furring strip

Board 1 · 34 7/8" left over

Board 2 · 34 7/8" left over

5/8" × 5 1/2" — Fence picket

Board 1 · 1 5/8" left over

Board 2 · 1/2" left over

Board 3 · 1/2" left over

Board 4 · 47 3/4" left over