NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
This bookshelf's signature look comes from a single detail: both legs are cut at a slight 5° angle rather than square, which is what gives the whole ladder its deliberate backward lean against the wall instead of standing perfectly upright. That lean does double duty — it looks intentional and casual, and it's part of what keeps the shelf's weight naturally pressing back into the wall rather than forward off it.
Shelves graduate in width from top to bottom (1x3 up through 1x12), each one built as its own small box — a shelf bottom with a back and two angled sides nailed and glued on. The side-corner angle can be cut at a repeatable saw setpoint rather than measured individually: mark the saw once with the board in position, then use that same mark to cut every subsequent side without re-measuring, which is faster and just as accurate as recalculating each angle.
Position the frame against the wall first, with the legs held a fixed 9-1/2" out, and set the bottom shelf level using that same 9-1/2" measurement before adding the rest. A scrap plywood spacer block, cut once, positions every remaining shelf at a consistent gap without re-measuring each one individually. Attach the top of the frame into real wall studs — this is explicitly called out as necessary to prevent the leaning frame from tipping forward, not an optional extra step.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x3, 8 ft | 4 each |
| 1x6, 16" long | 1 each |
| 1x8, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1x10, 16" long | 1 each |
| 1x12, 16" long | 1 each |
| Plywood scrap, for the shelf spacer block | 1 each |
| Brad nails or staples, 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs1x3, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 5°, parallel, long point to short point measurement. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 76 1/4" |
| Back support1x3, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 17 1/4" |
| Shelf bottoms, 1x31x3, 8 ft | 5 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| Shelf bottom, 1x61x6, 16" long | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| Shelf bottoms, 1x81x8, 4 ft | 3 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 15 3/4" |
| Shelf bottom, 1x101x10, 16" long | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 15 3/4" |
| Shelf bottom, 1x121x12, 16" long | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 15 3/4" |
| Shelf sides, smallest1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 6 1/4" |
| Shelf sides, small1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 8" |
| Shelf sides, medium1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 10" |
| Shelf sides, large1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12" |
| Shelf sides, largest1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Cut the legs per the cut list — both ends at 5°. Use a speed square to mark off the back top corner square to the top angled cut, so 2-1/2" is trimmed off the back, and cut with a circular saw.
Attach the back support to the back of the legs, flush to the top and back.
Build each shelf by nailing and gluing its back to its bottom with 1-1/4" brad nails or staples and wood glue — glue every nailed joint. Add the sides the same way, cutting the corner angles at a repeatable saw setpoint rather than measuring each one individually. For extra strength, the sides can also be pocket-holed from underneath.
Position the frame against the wall with the legs held 9-1/2" out. Measure up 9-1/2" and add the bottom shelf with clamps, checking level, then screw on with 1-1/4" screws.
Cut an 11"-long plywood spacer block and use it to position each remaining shelf at a consistent gap. Attach the top of the frame into real wall studs — this is required to prevent the leaning frame from tipping forward. Sand and finish.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.
4 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →