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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Join the back legs and back horizontal boards with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. If you'd rather work flat on a benchtop than reach around the back of the assembled bench later, you can add the decorative 2x2 verticals now instead of after the lattice step.
Assemble the seat frame — front, back, and ends — with either pocket holes or 2-1/2" self-tapping exterior screws, whichever you used for the back frame.
Screw the two under-support pieces across the seat frame's mid-span — this is what keeps a bench this long from developing a bounce in the middle. Then attach the completed seat framing to the back frame with 2-1/2" exterior screws.
Attach the front legs to the front of the seat framing with 2-1/2" screws. Add the arms on top, screwing from both the top and the back of each front leg for a solid, wobble-free connection.
Attach the four 2x6 seat slats across the top of the seat frame, evenly spaced, with 2-1/2" screws into the frame and under-supports below.
First, add the two 16"-long 2x2 decorative verticals to the back frame, centering them so there's 18-1/8" of open space between each vertical and the 2x4 back legs.
Then cut all the X-lattice pieces and dry-fit them into the openings. Once every piece fits, mark the pocket holes that need drilling on the BACK side of each piece, and letter the joints as you go (A-A on one crossing joint, B-B on the next, and so on) — this is what keeps you from accidentally drilling a hole that ends up facing the front of the bench. On the 45° mitered ends you can still drill a pocket hole; there isn't much material to work with, but it holds.
Attach every piece from the back side with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.