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Most small dog-house plans are really cat-house plans with a bigger door. This one is framed like an actual small building: a 2x4 floor frame, 2x2 stick-framed walls, and a real shingled roof over plywood decking — sized 4ft x 4ft for a large dog to turn around and lie down in.
The sloped roof isn't decorative — the 7.5° angle cuts on the side wall studs are what shed rain off the high side instead of pooling on a flat roof, which is exactly how a flat-roofed dog house rots out from the top down in two winters.
Build the walls and roof frame first and dry-fit everything before you commit to cutting the siding — stick-framed angles compound fast, and it's much cheaper to catch an error in construction lumber than in a sheet of siding.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Construction lumber, 2x4, 8 ftFloor frame. | 2 each |
| Construction lumber, 2x2, 8 ftWall frames and roof ridge. | 9 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ftExterior trim. | 5 each |
| T1-11 exterior siding, 4x8 sheetCut into the front, back, and two side wall panels. | 2 sheet |
| 3/4" plywood, 4x4 sheetFloor deck. | 1 each |
| 1/2" plywood, 4x4 sheetRoof deck. | 1 each |
| Asphalt shingles, roofing felt, and drip edgeA real shingled roof, not a shortcut — it's what actually keeps the inside dry. | 1 bundle |
| Galvanized nails, assorted | 1 box |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Floor frame sides2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 48" |
| Floor frame ends2x4 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 45" |
| Front wall studs, tall2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 48" |
| Front wall studs, short2x2 | 5 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 44 1/4" |
| Back wall studs, tall2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 48" |
| Back wall studs, short2x2 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 38 1/4" |
| Side wall studs A2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 45" |
| Side wall studs B2x27.5° angle both ends. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 45 5/8" |
| Side wall studs C2x27.5° angle one end. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 44 1/4" |
| Side wall studs D2x27.5° angle one end. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 41 5/16" |
| Side wall studs E2x27.5° angle one end. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 38 7/16" |
| Roof ridge2x27.5° angle both ends — ties the two side wall slopes together at the peak. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 45 5/8" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
13 boards
Assemble the floor frame from the 2x4 sides and ends, then cut and screw down the 3/4" plywood floor deck.
Get the frame square here — it's the reference every wall frame above it registers off of.
Build the front and back wall stud frames flat on the ground from the 2x2 studs per the cut list, then stand them on the floor deck and screw them down.
Cut the side wall studs, angling the ends 7.5° exactly where the cut list calls for it — these angles are what create the roof slope, so cut one test piece and check the angle before running the rest.
Assemble each side frame flat, then stand both between the front and back walls and screw them in.
Cut the 2x2 ridge piece with a 7.5° angle on both ends and install it at the peak, tying the two side wall slopes together.
Cut the T1-11 siding panels to fit the front, back, and side wall frames and nail them on. Add the 1x4 trim boards around the corners and openings to hide the raw plywood edges.
Cut and install the 1/2" plywood roof deck over the ridge and side walls. Roll out roofing felt, install drip edge along the eaves, then shingle from the bottom edge up, overlapping each course.
Don't skip the felt underlayment to save time — it's the difference between a roof that sheds water and one that just slows it down.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →