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This is a small, fast build with one measurement worth getting right: rung spacing. The plan's own builder found 1-5/8" the right gap to hold a standard K-Cup pod snugly without it falling through, with 1-3/4" as an acceptable second choice — anything looser and the pods slide down and jumble together at the bottom. Mark every rung location before you nail a single one on, rather than spacing them by eye as you go, since a drifting gap becomes obvious the moment pods are loaded in.
The top and bottom rail angles are both 10°, not the more common 15° — worth double-checking on your saw before cutting, since it's an easy mix-up. Squaring off the top back corner is optional but worth doing if this will lean directly against a wall; it lets the ladder rest flush instead of pivoting on a single point of contact.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x2, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 1 oz |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side railsPineBoth ends cut at 10° off square, ends parallel, long point to short point measurement. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| RungsPine | 5 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 8" |
Buy 1 board at 8 ft.
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the two side rails with both ends at 10° off square — not the more common 15°, worth double-checking on your saw. The angles should be parallel to each other, long point to short point. If this will lean directly against a wall, you can optionally square off the top back corner with a jigsaw so it rests flush instead of pivoting on one point.
Measure and mark out all five rung locations on both rails before nailing anything — a 1-5/8" gap between rungs holds a standard K-Cup pod snugly (1-3/4" also works). Glue and nail each rung in place with 1-1/4" brad nails.
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