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Step-by-step build — 11 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Notch out all eight leg pieces. Set the circular saw's blade depth to 3/4" and make repeated cuts across the notched area roughly every 1/4", then use a chisel to clean out the waste between the cuts.
Fit the middle 2x6 stretcher inside each leg set through the notches, and attach with 2-1/2" screws driven from inside (starting in the longer leg piece) and glue. Take care to keep everything square — the shorter bottom stretcher can act as a spacer to help true it up.
Attach the shorter bottom stretcher with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, screw in at an angle instead, or notch it the same way as the middle stretcher. Drill the pocket holes at 3/4" rather than 1-1/2" so the screw doesn't land in the gap between the two leg boards.
Attach the top 2x4 in place with 2-1/2" screws and glue. This completes the two leg sets.
Attach the 2x4 top studs between the top aprons — these will support the tabletop in a later step.
Attach the center legs to the top and bottom aprons with 2-1/2" wood screws and glue.
Fill the void behind the center leg with the smaller inside center leg piece.
Attach the 2x2 shelf board supports to the insides of the 2x6 aprons, set about 3/4" down to leave room for the shelf boards.
Starting in the center and working outward, lay the 1x6 shelf boards down. The end boards need to be notched with a jigsaw to fit around the legs. Glue and nail down.
Attach the 2x10 top boards to the studs and aprons with 2-1/2" screws and glue, keeping the overhangs even on the ends and front/back.
Attach the caster wheels to the bottom of the legs. Sand and finish as desired.