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The trick to this stool is entirely mechanical, not woodworking: a length of 5/8" all-thread rod is anchored in a flange at the base and runs up through a matching flange (or top plate) mounted under the seat. Spin the seat and it threads up or down the rod, which is what gives you stepless height adjustment without buying an actual gas-lift mechanism. Everything else — the 2x2 legs, the X cross supports, the footrest — is just there to hold that rod straight and steady.
The cross supports use a half-lap joint: notch each 2x2 halfway through, one on the long face and one on the short face, so the two pieces nest together flush instead of stacking on top of each other. Glue this joint — don't screw or nail it — because a fastener driven through the thin remaining wood at the notch would split it.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2 board, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 3/4" plywood scrap, for top mounting plate | 1 each |
| 12" round seat blank, 1-1/2" thickLaminate from 1x12 and plywood scraps glued face to face, or buy a pre-cut round blank. | 1 each |
| 5/8" all-thread rod, 18" | 1 each |
| 5/8" flange or top plateCan be improvised from scrap steel and welded nuts if you have access to a welder. | 1 each |
| 5/8" nuts and washers | 4 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2" | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top stretchers2x2Both ends cut at 10° off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 12 1/2" |
| Top mounting plate3/4" plywood scrapCorners clipped at 45°. | 1 | 3/4" × 8 1/2" × 8 1/2" |
| Legs2x2Both ends cut at 10° off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 23 1/2" |
| Footrest cross supports2x2Both ends cut at 45°, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point. Notched half-lap where the pairs cross. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9 5/8" |
| SeatLaminated round blank12" diameter round. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 12" × 12" |
Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the plywood scrap to an 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" square, then clip all four corners off at 45°. This plate is what the seat's flange mounts to.
Set a circular saw blade to a 3/4" depth and notch two of the footrest pieces along their long face, and the other two along their short face, so each notch is half the material's thickness. Glue — don't screw or nail — the pairs together where the notches interlock; a fastener here would split the thin remaining wood.
Assemble the legs, top stretchers, and mounting plate into the stool base using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, or countersunk 2-1/2" wood screws if you'd rather not drill pocket holes.
Attach the glued footrest cross-support assembly to the outside of the legs with a single countersunk 2-1/2" screw per joint plus glue — one screw is enough here since the half-lap joint is already doing the structural work.
Mount the base flange to the top mounting plate on the stool base, and the matching flange or top plate to the underside of the round seat. Thread the all-thread rod into the base flange, secured with a nut and washer, then thread the seat onto the rod. Add a second nut and washer above the seat's flange to act as a stop and lock the height once you've dialed it in.
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