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This is the Homestead console table's shorter, wider sibling — the same splayed-leg trestle language at coffee-table height, with a bottom shelf for the stack of books that justifies the whole purchase. Like the rest of the collection, exactly one angle appears anywhere in the build: 10°, set once on the miter saw.
The cut list's three flavors of 10° cut deserve the usual respect (parallel long-point-to-short-point for the legs; NOT-parallel long-point-to-long-point for the cleats and shelf supports) — mark each part's identity on it as it comes off the saw.
The build tip that's worth stealing came from the source video: tack each leg assembly together with 2" brads and glue FIRST, then add the pocket holes and screws. The brads act as clamps holding the angled joints in alignment — angled parts squirm under a driven screw, and the tack-first method removes the squirm. Top choice is yours: the drawn 2x8s for the chunky farmhouse look, or the builder's own modification of two 1x12s for something lighter. Yellow-toned lumber indoors; red-toned if this ends up on a covered porch.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 12 ftThe leg assemblies. Yellow-toned for indoors. | 1 each |
| 2x6, 8 ftBottom shelf and leg base plates. | 2 each |
| 2x8, 12 ftThe top — or substitute two 1x12 @ 42" like the source build did, for a lighter look. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 30 each |
| Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 8 oz |
| Stain and topcoat | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top boards2x8Or two 1x12 @ 42" — the source's own modification. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 48" |
| Bottom shelf boards2x6 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 38" |
| Legs10° both ends, PARALLEL, long point to short point. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 13 1/4" |
| Top cleats10° both ends, NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 14 5/8" |
| Shelf supports10° both ends, NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 17 7/8" |
| Base plates2x610° both ends, NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 20 3/4" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
2 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Assemble each trestle end — two splayed legs, top cleat, shelf support — using the video's sequence: glue and 2" brads first to tack every angled joint in perfect alignment, THEN drill the 1-1/2" pocket holes and drive the 2-1/2" pocket screws.
Angled joints creep when a screw hits them; the brads are disposable clamps that stop it. Pocket holes go on the faces that end up hidden — down and inward.
Screw a 2x6 base plate across the bottom of each leg assembly with the self-tapping screws. The plates widen the table's stance and give the splayed legs their landing.
Lay the top boards face down, position the leg assemblies on the underside, and screw through the top cleats into the top.
The nicer-top option, as ever with this collection: pocket-hole the top boards into one panel first (1-1/2" holes, 2-1/2" screws), then mount it as a unit — flatter, tighter seams, no gaps collecting crumbs.
Set the three 2x6 shelf boards on the shelf supports between the legs and screw up from underneath with the 2-1/2" screws.
Sand — break the top's edges generously; shins negotiate with coffee tables daily — then stain and topcoat. The collection look is a warm stain with visible grain; the durability requirement is a real topcoat, because this surface hosts mugs, feet, and board-game nights.
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