Hidden Door Knee Wall Storage

Build the stub wall on the floor: top and bottom plates the length of the run, 45" studs at both ends and every 32". Screw with the 2-1/2" screws, and square the openings by matching diagonals — write this on your hand: THE OPENINGS MUST BE SQUARE, because concealed hinges adjust millimeters, not degrees.

Tip it up, plumb it with the level, and fasten to the floor, side walls, and (via blocking if needed) the ceiling framing — into studs and joists, not drywall. Re-check the opening diagonals after fastening; an out-of-flat floor can rack a square wall as you screw it down.

Run the 2x4 across the top and the 2x2 along the bottom with the screws. These bring the wall face proud of the framing so the doors can swing without scraping floor or slope — they're clearance spacers dressed as trim. The small gap remaining at the top gets covered by finish trim at the end.

Measure each opening (measure each — framing reality beats plan dimensions), and cut each plywood door 1-1/4" wider than its inside opening and 1/2" short of the overall height. Cut with a straightedge guide; these edges are on display.

Install the concealed hinges per their template — drill the 35mm cups if yours are cup hinges — and hang each door, then walk the adjustment screws until margins are even. For any end opening too small to be a useful door: nail the plywood on fixed, as the source did. It keeps the rhythm and costs nothing.

Cut the 1x3 battens to door height and brad-nail one to each door's NON-hinge edge. Each batten is the door's handle and hides the gap to its neighbor — dry-swing each door before nailing to confirm the batten doesn't block the adjacent door's arc.

Nail the finish trim over the top gap, fill, sand, and paint everything one uniform color. The moment the paint dries, the doors disappear — which was the point.