Hemnes Linen Cabinet

Lay out the parts for the front and rear frames, putting the best sides facing out, and mark the joints so assembly is easier later. Where a square-cut end meets the mill-rounded long edge of a 2x2, round the joining end to match — a purely aesthetic touch that hides imperfect alignment and looks finished. Anywhere two 2x2s meet, use 2-1/2" pocket screws and drill the pocket holes for 1-1/2" stock so the screws center in the joint.

On a flat surface, lay out a side with the good face of the plywood down (you're working from the inside). Shim the plywood up flush with the tops of the 2x2s using scrap 1x and cardboard. Mark and drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the plywood and two on each end of the top/bottom rails, spaced 3/8" from the edges. Drive screws to build the side assembly, attaching the shorter tops and bottoms first. Repeat for the second side, transferring marks back and forth so both match.

This is the most complex sub-assembly but it's straightforward. Drill pocket holes on both ends of the front rails. Fasten the center piece with wood screws from top and bottom (predrill and countersink the four holes), using the center divider itself as a spacer between the rails to keep them aligned. Attach the center divider to the front, then the back rail, centered on the divider. It's easier to assemble upside down.

For each shelf, put the plywood good-face-down and drill pocket holes (exact layout doesn't matter — they'll never be seen). Attach a 1x2 on edge to the front as the shelf's face. Build as many shelves as your storage needs — the standard is two.

Lay one side panel face down. Attach the drawer divider using the pre-drilled holes, aligning to your layout lines. Attach the bottom shelf and any shelves to the side. Lay the other side panel face down and flip the assembly onto it, continuing to align and screw. Roll the unit onto its face and attach the back with a 3/4" reveal all around, a nail every 6", after measuring the diagonals for square. Stand it up.

Ease the edges of the 1x6s for a plank look if you like. Put the best sides face down and join the planks with pocket holes (4–5 screws per joint, kept at least 2" from the ends so they don't show along the outside edges), glued as well as screwed. If you're staining the top, do it now while the underside is easy to coat.

Build each door frame from 1x2 rails between stiles, pocket-screwed with outside edges and front faces flush. Add the 3/4" center strip to one door for the look of a center support. Install the doors per the hinge instructions with an even 1/8" gap all around and between them. For panels, use tempered or laminated SAFETY glass (never plain window glass), or beadboard/plywood/punched tin — 16-1/2" x 39", secured with screen clips or 1/2" brads.

Build each drawer box from the ripped drawer pieces with pocket holes 5/8" from the edges, holes facing outward. Nail on the plywood bottom flush (no overhang, or it fouls the slides). Install the glides so the drawer box front is 3/4" back from the cabinet face. Install knobs on the drawer fronts, then shim each front to an even 1/8" gap and nail from inside with 1-1/8" nails (short enough not to poke through).

Finally, predrill and attach the top with a 1-1/8" overhang on the front and sides, driving 2" screws up through the rails.