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A high chair has one job that matters above looks: it cannot tip. That's why the legs on this one splay outward, set by a handful of 10° cuts, giving a wider footprint at the floor than at the seat. Get those angles consistent and the chair is rock-solid; get them sloppy and it rocks.
The cut list is precise about which ends are angled and which are square, and about 'shortest point' versus 'parallel' measurements — read it carefully, because a 2x2 cut 10° at the wrong end puts the splay the wrong way. Set your saw to 10° once and cut all the like pieces together so they match. Build the two side assemblies first and make them mirror images; if they don't match exactly, the chair sits crooked.
Use 2-1/2" screws or pocket screws for the 2x2 joinery, but switch to 2" screws where you fasten up into the seat so nothing pokes through the surface a child sits on. The backrest height is worth dialing in with the actual child — the source builder sat their daughter in it to set the support. And because it's a high chair, plan to add a safety strap or harness: the wood holds the child up, the strap keeps them in.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2 board, 8 ftLegs, aprons, supports. | 2 each |
| 1x12 board, 15"Seat. | 1 each |
| 1x6 board, 15"Backrest. | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole and wood screws, 2" and 2-1/2" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Child-safe finishA child eats at this chair — use a food-safe or non-toxic finish. | 8 oz |
| Safety strap / harnessNot woodworking, but required — a high chair needs a restraint. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Back leg feet2x2One end 10° off square, shortest point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 8 1/4" |
| Back leg mids2x2One end 10° off square, shortest point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 10 1/16" |
| Back legs2x2Both ends 10° off square, parallel to each other. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 21 5/16" |
| Front legs2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 21" |
| Front support/apron2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 12" |
| Seat1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 15" |
| Back supports2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 19" |
| Back base2x2 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9" |
| Backrest1x6 | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 15" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut all the 10° pieces per the cut list, minding which ends are angled and whether the measurement is to the short point or parallel. Build the two side assemblies with 2-1/2" countersunk screws (or pocket screws) and glue, and make them mirror images. If the sides don't match, the finished chair rocks.
Connect the two side assemblies with the front apron/support pieces, same fasteners and glue. Check the frame is square and sits flat before moving on.
Set the 1x12 seat on the frame and fasten it — switch to 2" screws here so nothing pokes up through the seat surface. Screw the side aprons to the seat as well to lock it down.
Assemble the back from the two back supports and the back base with 2-1/2" fasteners, adjusting for square. Attach it to the seat assembly, then screw the backrest to the back supports.
Set the backrest height to the actual child — sitting them in it is the honest way to get it right — level it and screw it home. Sand every edge round, finish with a food-safe product, and fit a safety strap. The wood holds the child up; the strap keeps them in.
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