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Hall Tree — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.

3/4" × 11"

3 boards · 13.8 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 74% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 22 7/8" left over

    1. Main Leg — 72"

  2. Board 2 · 22 7/8" left over

    1. Main Leg — 72"

  3. Board 3 · 29 3/4" left over

    1. Large Box Bottom — 33"
    2. Seat Lid — 32"

3/4" × 5"

2 boards · 5.0 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 89% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 9 5/8" left over

    1. Top — 35"
    2. Box Front — 33"
    3. Seat Leg — 17"

  2. Board 2 · 11 5/8" left over

    1. Box Back — 33"
    2. Seat Rail — 33"
    3. Seat Leg — 17"

3/4" × 3"

1 board · 0.8 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 50% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 47 3/4" left over

    1. Small Box Bottom — 33"
    2. Box Brace — 14"

3/4" × 2"

3 boards · 2.3 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 68% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 12 3/4" left over

    1. Frame Stile — 54"
    2. Frame Rail — 28"

  2. Board 2 · 12 3/4" left over

    1. Frame Stile — 54"
    2. Frame Rail — 28"

  3. Board 3 · 66 7/8" left over

    1. Hook Rail — 28"

1/4" × 32"

1 board · 3.4 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 57% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 40 7/8" left over

    1. Back Panel — 54"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.