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A planked headboard in the framed-panel style: six 1x6 boards make up the field, wrapped in casing moulding for a picture-frame look, with 2x4 legs beefed up enough to bolt a standard metal bed frame to. At about 57-1/2" wide it suits a full or queen. The source didn't list tools, but the build is a straightforward glue-and-brad-nail job with mitered trim, so the tool list here is inferred from what the steps actually require.
Start by nailing the panel field to the back support boards — the nail holes on the back don't matter because the trim covers them, and if you have a pocket-hole jig you can also join the planks to each other down the center for a flatter panel. If your boards aren't perfectly co-planar, clamp them flat while the glue sets.
The legs do real work here. Beef them up with the 2x4 stock so there's meat to bolt a frame to, fastening from the back to hide screws. The moulding is the finish move: miter the corners at 45° and, for invisible joints, glue-and-clamp rather than nail — just let the glue fully set before handling. Finish with the top cap flush to the outside of the legs.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x6, 10 ftPanel boards. | 3 each |
| 1x4, 8 ftBottom board and back supports. | 2 each |
| 1x3, 6 ftLegs and top trim. | 3 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftTop rail. | 1 each |
| 2x4, 4 ftLeg beef-up for bolting a frame. | 1 each |
| Casing moulding, 3-1/4", 7 ft sticks | 2 each |
| Brad nails, 3/4", 1-1/4", and 2" | 150 each |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Panel boards1x6 | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 57 1/2" |
| Bottom board1x4 | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 57 1/2" |
| Back supports1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 54" |
| Top rail2x2 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 57 1/2" |
| Leg beef-up2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16" |
| Leg fronts1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 54" |
| Top trim1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 59" |
| Casing mouldingCasingCut to fit and miter corners at 45°. | 1 | 1/2" × 3 1/4" × 84" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
6 boards
3 boards
3 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Nail the panel boards to the back support boards; the nail holes on the back will be covered by trim. If you have a pocket-hole jig, also join the planks to each other down the center for a flatter panel. If the boards aren't lining up flush, clamp them flat while the glue sets.
Add the bottom board. Nail from the back for the biggest bite, or use screws and glue. Kreg-jig users can also attach with 3/4" pocket holes up from the bottom planked board.
Beef up the legs with the 2x4 stock so there's something solid to bolt a bed frame to if you're using one. Fasten with nails or screws from the back to keep the fasteners hidden.
Cut the casing moulding to fit and miter the corners at 45° off square. Nail on with short finish nails and glue. For invisible joints, glue-and-clamp instead of nailing — but let the glue fully set before you handle the headboard.
Add the top rail and trim, keeping the outsides flush with the legs. Sand and finish — paint or stain both suit the framed-panel look.
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