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Step-by-step build — 5 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Transfer the arch and center-hole layout onto the larger plywood piece — this becomes the back plate, and sets the overall clipboard silhouette. Cut it out carefully with a jigsaw and sand the edges smooth. Paint this face with chalkboard paint before moving on; it's much easier to get even coverage on a flat, unobstructed panel now than after the clip hardware is attached.
Cut a strip about 2" wide and at least 16" long (20" is more comfortable to work with). Clamp one end to the table and shape the arch on the overhanging end with the jigsaw, then drill the dowel-hole center on that same overhanging section. Only after the arch is cut and the hole is drilled do you cut the piece down to its final short length — trying to clamp and shape an already-short piece is how small parts go flying. If you'd rather skip this step, 1x3 boards work as a simpler substitute for the clip pieces.
Attach the shaped dowel-holder pieces to the top of the back plate, using glue and nails or screws from the back, or 1/2" pocket holes with 1" pocket screws driven from the front.
Cut the front plate to its outline and repeat the same clip-piece attachment on it.
Attach the completed front clip assembly to the back plate. Round the back plate's corners now if you'd like a softer look — purely cosmetic. Slide the dowel rod through the clip holes to complete the working clip, and mount the finished piece to the wall.