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This bed's structure is a straightforward 2x6 and 2x4 frame, but the headboard has one nice detail: the frame is built first, and separate insert boards drop into its opening afterward — which means you can finish the frame one color and the inserts another before final assembly, something you can't do cleanly if the headboard is one solid glued-up panel. The feet are built the same laminating way, gluing up layers of 2x6 offcuts rather than sourcing a thick timber, which is a good way to reuse material you'd otherwise be cutting to waste elsewhere in this project.
Assemble the frame in the room it'll live in — a full bed frame is heavy and awkward through doorways once built. The plan intentionally skips glue on the side-rail-to-headboard/footboard joints, using screws and pocket screws only, so you can take it apart again if you ever need to move it.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x2 board, 6 ft | 2 each |
| 1x4 board, 6 ftMattress slats. | 11 each |
| 1x6 board, 8 ftHeadboard insert boards — finish these separately for a two-tone look. | 3 each |
| 2x4 board, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 2x6 board, 8 ftHeadboard frame and the laminated feet. | 4 each |
| 2x8 board, 6 ftCenter support rail. | 1 each |
| 2x8 board, 8 ftSide rails. | 2 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2" | 60 each |
| Wood screws, 2-1/2" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Feet (laminated 2x6, 3 layers each)2x6 | 4 | 4 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 13" |
| Headboard support crosspieces, long2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 40" |
| Headboard support crosspiece, short2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 6" |
| Headboard frame stiles2x6 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 49 1/2" |
| Headboard frame rails2x6 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 46" |
| Headboard center rail2x6 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 38 1/2" |
| Headboard insert boards1x6Cut to fit the headboard frame's inner opening — finish separately from the frame if going for a two-tone look. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 38" |
| Side rails2x8 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 76" |
| Center support rail2x8 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 72" |
| Slat support cleats1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 67" |
| Mattress slats1x4 | 11 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 54" |
Buy 24 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
3 boards
3 boards
Glue up three layers of 13"-long 2x6 offcuts for each of the four feet, clamping until dry. Use 2-1/2" pocket holes on the inside to join them for extra strength beyond the glue.
Attach two of the laminated feet to the footboard location with four 2-1/2" wood screws each, plus glue. If you'd rather not miter the footboard corners, that's fine — just shorten the side rails to match.
Build the headboard support from the remaining two feet and the two 40" and one 6" 2x4 crosspieces. The back of this assembly is hidden by the headboard itself, so put the pocket holes on the rear face where they won't show.
Build the headboard frame from the two stiles, two rails, and center rail, with pocket holes on the rear side so none show from the front.
Before final assembly, finish the footboard, headboard support, headboard frame, insert boards, side rails, and center rail separately — it's much easier to get clean, even coverage on flat parts than on an assembled bed. If you want the insert boards a different color or stain than the frame, this is the step where that separation pays off.
If you're using a contrasting finish on the inserts, fit them into the headboard frame's opening now.
Attach the headboard support to the headboard frame, keeping the bottom edges flush and an equal gap on each side. Drive 2-1/2" wood screws through the back of the headboard into the support.
This bed is heavy — assemble it in the room it will live in rather than building it elsewhere and moving it. Attach the side rails to the footboard with 2-1/2" wood screws driven through the inside of the feet, and to the headboard end with pocket hole screws near the top of the rail. Skip glue on these joints if you might need to disassemble the bed to move it later.
Attach the 1x2 slat support cleats to the inside of the outer side rails, keeping the top flush with the top of the feet. Add the center support rail down the middle with pocket screws on the sides. Lay the slats across, evenly spaced, and screw down at the edges.
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1 board
3 boards
11 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →