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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Nail through the sides into the shelves to build the basic box, following the shelf spacing in the plan. Screws or 3/4" pocket holes with 1-1/4" pocket screws also work. Keep it square — the face frames will reference these edges.
Nail the 1x2 leg sides to the sides of the bookcase with 1-1/4" nails, keeping outside edges flush. They over-extend the bottom of the sides by 3-1/2" — that overhang becomes the leg. Confirm both sides extend the same amount so the case sits level.
Fasten the 1x3 leg fronts and backs to the side legs with 2" nails, driving into the side legs, the shelves, and the sides all at once. Fastening into all three layers is what makes the legs structural rather than trim stuck on the outside.
Attach the inside top trim with 1-1/4" brads and glue, then the two outer top trim pieces, top edges flush. Trim the front edges of all three shelves with the remaining 1x2 pieces, top edges flush with the shelves, using 2" nails and glue. This hides the shelf edges and gives a consistent front face.
Attach the 1/4" back panel with 1-1/4" nails and glue, marking and nailing into every shelf so it can't rattle. Then add the side shelf-trim pieces — measure and cut each for best fit, since real-world spacing drifts from the drawing.
Attach the top. For a plywood/MDF top, position it with a 1" overhang on the front and sides, glue and nail, then iron on edge banding to hide the raw edges. For a planked pine top, attach the 1x3 first (back edge flush with the back of the 1x2), 1" overhang each side, then the 1x12 across the front the same way.
Fill nail holes, sand, apply edge banding if you used plywood, and stain or paint.