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A fixed guitar stand takes up floor space whether or not it's holding a guitar; this one pivots flat on a dowel-rod hinge so it folds down to almost nothing when it's not in use — worth the extra build step if the stand is going in a gig bag or a small apartment.
The curved silhouette isn't just decorative — the profile is what the guitar's body and neck actually rest against, so trace it carefully rather than freehanding a rough approximation.
A small latch piece, pivoting on its own screw, is what holds the stand open under the guitar's weight; without it the two halves would simply fold closed again.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine or hardwood board, 1x10, 36in | 2 each |
| Dowel rod, 3/4", 6in cut | 1 each |
| Latch piece stock, 1in x 1/4in x 12in | 1 each |
| Wood screws, assorted | 6 each |
| Felt strip tape | 1 roll |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Stand halves1x10, joined to widthTrace and cut the curved profile from this blank. | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/2" × 36" |
Buy 1 board at 8 ft.
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
If needed, join boards edge-to-edge to reach a 9-1/2in wide blank, then true up one edge on a table saw.
Trace and cut the curved stand profile onto each blank with a jigsaw.
Drill a hole sized to the 3/4in dowel rod through both stand halves at the fold point, so they can pivot on the dowel.
Cut and drill the small latch piece that holds the stand open, and attach it to one half with a screw so it pivots freely.
Sand progressively from 150 to 220 grit, apply felt strip tape to every point that will contact the guitar, and finish.
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