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The trick here is entirely in the gap: the leg-and-apron frame is built to sit inset 1/2" from the top edge on every side, so once the door is set on top, there's a visible reveal all the way around that makes the tabletop look like it's floating above the base rather than sitting on it. A flush hollow-core door — no bore holes, no hinge mortises — is what makes this affordable at table-top size; a comparable solid slab of that size in real hardwood would cost many times more.
Build the frame first and get every leg-to-apron gap consistent before the door goes on — once the top is down, an uneven reveal on one side is very visible and there's no adjusting it without pulling the top back off.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Flush hollow-core interior door, 32" x 80", no bores or hinges | 1 each |
| 1x3 board, 8 ft | 4 each |
| 1x4 board, 8 ft | 4 each |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4" and 2" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Under-table supports1x3 | 7 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 29" |
| Inner apron1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 78 1/2" |
| End legs1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 28 1/8" |
| Side of legs1x4 | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/8" |
| Side aprons1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 73" |
| End aprons1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 25 1/2" |
Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
6 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Construct the table frame from 1x3s using 2" screws and glue, screwing through the inner aprons into the under-table supports. Space the supports about 12" apart along the length.
Attach the end legs with 1-1/4" screws and glue, leaving a 1/2" gap at the top — this is the reveal that makes the top look like it floats. Check every leg for square as you go.
Attach the side-of-leg pieces to the table frame with 1-1/4" screws and glue, then attach them to the end legs down the sides, keeping the outside edges flush.
Keep the top edge of the side and end aprons flush with the legs, leaving that same 1/2" gap from the top of the frame. Fasten with 1-1/4" nails and glue — screws work too, but nails are quicker and hide more easily since this joint isn't carrying significant load.
Sand and finish the entire frame before setting the door on top — it's much easier to finish the base without the top in the way. Once finished, set the door top onto the frame, checking the reveal gap is even on all four sides.
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