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This is a simple lean-to structure: two angled 2x3 side frames (built as mirror images of each other, not identical twins) joined by front and back rails, with 2x3s stacked up the open sides and back for structure and a single sheet of plywood cut into three pieces for the sloped roof. Building the two side frames as true mirror images — not the same frame built twice — is what gives the roof its consistent forward slope for water runoff; build them identically instead and the roof won't shed water the way it should.
Set the frame on cinder blocks or pavers rather than directly on soil, which keeps the bottom rails out of standing water and away from the ground contact that would otherwise rot construction-grade lumber fast. Stain with a real deck stain for the same reason — this lumber isn't naturally rot-resistant, and staining is what buys it a useful outdoor lifespan.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x3 board, 8 ft, construction grade | 16 each |
| Roofing plywood, 1/2", 4x8 sheet | 1 each |
| Cinder blocks or sturdy pavers | 4 each |
| Exterior deck screws, 3" | 80 each |
| Tar paper | 1 roll |
| Shingles | 1 bundle |
| Deck stain | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side spacers2x3 | 8 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 24" |
| Long side sticks2x3Cut edge at 22.5° angle. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 84" |
| Short side sticks2x3Cut edge at 22.5° angle. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 72" |
| Face and stacking rails2x3 | 9 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 96" |
| Roof ridge pieces2x3Approximate — scribe and cut the angle to fit against the assembled side frames. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 30" |
Some parts are longer than a 8 ft board, so there is no honest board count to show here. Open the board plan to pick a longer stock length — it names every part that does not fit.
8 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut a 2x3 to six feet with a 22.5° angle on the cut edge, then a second 2x3 to seven feet with the same 22.5° angle. Cut a 2x3 to two feet and fasten it to the two longer sticks, six inches up from the edge — this shorter piece should overhang the shorter stick by 1.75", the width of a 2x3.
Checking carefully for square, lay a 2x3 across the tops of the longer sticks, connecting them flush. Scribe the angle where it meets the sticks onto this top piece, cut it, and fasten it in place.
Repeat the same process to build the second side frame — but put the connecting 2x3 on the opposite side of the long sticks, so the two frames are true mirror images rather than identical twins. This is what gives the finished roof a consistent slope.
Attach the two side frames together using uncut 2x3s: the rear piece fastens to the overhang left in the last two steps, and the front piece sits just behind the long stick. This is a good point to move the frame to its final location if you're not building on site. Set the long sticks on cinder blocks or sturdy pavers for a level, ground-contact-free base.
Add additional 2x3s stacked up the sides and back, leaving even spaces between them for airflow — scrap 2x3 offcuts make quick, consistent spacers. Go as high as you'd like.
Fasten 2x3x8 boards across the top of the shed, keeping their edges flush with the angled side sticks. Cut the plywood roof from a single 4x8 sheet: two 3x4 sections and one 1x4 section (with a small waste piece left over), and fasten it down.
Staple down tar paper over the plywood roof, then install shingles over it. Stain the whole structure with deck stain to protect the construction-grade lumber, then stack your firewood, alternating direction layer to layer to maintain good airflow.
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