Farmhouse Kitchen Island

Attach the spacers to the legs — note the spacers are not in the same position on every leg, so track which leg is which as you go. Then fasten the side aprons to the spacers.

Use 3" screws to fasten the top supports (D) to the legs, working from the cut list dimensions — there's an intentional 1-3/4" difference on the sides you should account for.

Use 2" screws and glue to fasten the back apron in place, checking square as you go. Fasten the bottom front and back supports (H) to the side supports; if you plan to load the bottom shelf with heavy items, add a couple of 2x2 supports (F) across between the H boards for extra strength.

Notch the corners of the bottom shelf plywood to fit around the legs, then set it in place and fasten it down.

Using the third 2x8 board (D), fasten the center divider in place with 3" screws. This board must be dead square — any lean will keep your drawers from gliding smoothly for the life of the island.

Fasten the horizontal face trim (L) with 2" fasteners, making sure it's fastened to the center divider (confirm it hasn't shifted from the last step), then fasten the vertical trim (M). Fasten the top in place — attaching to the trim, legs, aprons, and the 2x8 supports — centered with a 1" overhang on all sides. You may prefer to add the top after the drawers are built and fitted.

Read your drawer slide instructions before building — this plan assumes side-mount slides needing 1/2" clearance per side. Cut the plywood bottoms perfectly straight, then fasten the 1x4 fronts and backs to the bottoms, followed by the sides. Fit each drawer box into its opening using the slides.

Once the boxes are set, measure and cut the drawer faces, marking and lightly scoring the center of each to suggest two drawers if you like that look. Attach the faces with a couple of 1-1/4" nails and glue, avoiding where pulls will go, then pull the drawers back out and drive screws from inside into the face for a permanent hold.