NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
This is a small box with one genuinely clever detail: the door front is hardware cloth instead of a solid panel or glass, so every necklace hanging inside is visible at a glance without opening the door. The nails that hold the necklaces are just driven in a row about an inch apart — no jig, no fancy layout — but their spacing is worth adjusting to your own necklace lengths before you commit to a pattern; a longer chain loops around a nail a couple of times to shorten it, so exact spacing isn't critical.
Cut the hardware cloth with tin snips, not wire cutters — tin snips go through the mesh in one continuous cut where wire cutters fight you snip by snip. Small spacer blocks set inside the cabinet let you rest the door on them while you install the hinges, instead of trying to hold a swinging door in position with one hand while you drive screws with the other.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ftDoor frame. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Plywood or beadboard, 1/4"Optional back panel, 16" x 32". | 1 sheet |
| Narrow-profile hinges | 1 set |
| Cabinet handle | 1 each |
| Hardware cloth or chicken wire | 4 sq ft |
| Staples1/2" staples for the hardware cloth. | 1 box |
| Small hanging nailsInterior necklace hooks. | 30 each |
| Magnetic clasp or haspOptional door latch. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 32" |
| BottomPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| TopPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 17" |
| Back supportsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Back panelPlywood or beadboard | 1 | 1/4" × 16" × 32" |
| Door stilesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 31" |
| Door railsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the box bottom, sides, and structure as shown — a pocket hole jig makes for the cleanest joints, but countersinking screws or plain nail-and-glue both work fine on a small piece like this. If you plan to attach the top with pocket holes, drill two 3/4" pocket holes facing up on the inside of each side now, before assembly, so they're ready for the top in a later step.
Attach the back support strips. Their placement can be adjusted to suit your own necklace lengths — you don't have to match the plan's exact spacing, since a longer necklace just loops around a hook a couple of times to shorten. You'll hang the finished cabinet on the wall through a screw driven through these supports.
Attach the top piece using the pocket holes drilled earlier, or nails and glue.
Attach the plywood or beadboard back panel — this is optional; the cabinet works fine open-backed if you'd rather skip it.
Build the door frame from the four rail and stile pieces. Cut a few small spacer blocks about 2-3/4" long and set them inside the cabinet opening — resting the door on these blocks while you attach the hinges is much easier than holding a loose door in position with one hand.
With the door resting on the spacer blocks, install the hinges, then add the handle and an optional magnetic clasp.
Drive a row of small nails inside the cabinet, spaced about an inch apart, for hanging necklaces.
Cut the hardware cloth or chicken wire to fit the door opening — use tin snips rather than wire cutters, since snips make one continuous cut through the mesh where cutters fight you snip by snip. Staple it to the back of the door frame with 1/2" staples.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.