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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Build two end leg sets from the 2x2 legs. A scrap 2x2 block clamped under the bottom shelf position as you assemble helps you land the height consistently on both frames.
Dry-fit the two X-brace pieces inside one end frame, crossing them the way the diagram shows. Trace the overlap onto BOTH pieces with a pencil, then cut the lap notch on only ONE of the two — the other stays a full, uncut board. Repeat for the second end frame.
Attach the full-length X piece to the inside of the leg frame first, then the notched piece, matching the pencil lines you traced. You may need to drive a screw at a slight angle to seat the second piece — glue and clamp is fine here too, since the shelf rail added next locks everything in place.
Screw the 2x4 shelf support rail across the outside of the X, tying the whole end frame together.
Build the center leg upside down: attach all four legs to the top 2x4 rail first, top edges flush. Flip right side up, then add the lower 2x4 shelf rail, propping it on a scrap block to elevate it 1-1/2" off the bottom of the legs.
Turn the whole unit on its side to attach the shelf rail — it needs to sit perpendicular to the legs, not parallel, or the shelf comes out racked instead of level.
Set all three leg units on a flat, level surface about 30" apart. Working with a second pair of hands helps here. Tie them together lengthwise with the remaining 2x2 stock, driving screws at a slight angle so the threads grip like hooks rather than pivoting under load. Glue every joint.
Do this on a level floor, not a garage slab — most garages slope gently toward a drain, and a trestle base built on that slope reads level right up until it's in the room it's going to live in.
If you have a pocket-hole jig, join the three tabletop boards edge to edge first; if not, that's fine too. Lay the boards on a flat surface, center the assembled leg frame on top, and screw up from underneath into the tabletop — no fasteners show on the show face.
Add the shelf slats to both shelf levels with a 1" gap between each board, two screws per joint. Sand every edge, then finish the whole piece — this design works stained for an entryway or left for exterior-rated finish outdoors.