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At close to 96" long, this table is wide enough that a standard two-pedestal base would sag in the middle under real load — the third, center pedestal is what makes a table this size structurally honest rather than just visually balanced. Build all three pedestals identically and check that a 2x6 slides cleanly into each pedestal's opening before you move on; a tight or loose fit on even one pedestal throws off the beam alignment down the line.
The angled cross braces on each pedestal are cut at 22-1/2° — an eighth-turn angle, not a standard 45° — so double-check your miter saw's angle setting against the cut list before running through all 24 of those pieces. The beams that run the length of the table get slid onto the assembled pedestals rather than boxed in around them, which is what lets this design go together and come apart again for moving a table this size through doorways.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ftPedestal legs and framing. | 12 each |
| Pine, 2x6, 8 ftBeams and tabletop framing. | 5 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine project panels, 16" x 96"Or 1x lumber for the tabletop, at least 47-1/2" x 95-3/4" total. | 3 each |
| Self-tapping wood screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Pedestal legs, outer layerPine | 12 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| Pedestal legs, inner layerPine | 12 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 8 1/2" |
| Pedestal top caps, outerPineBoth ends cut at 22-1/2° off square, long-point to long-point. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 47" |
| Pedestal top caps, middlePineBoth ends cut at 22-1/2° off square, long-point to long-point. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 42 3/4" |
| Cross support piecesPineOne end cut at 22-1/2° off square, longest-point measurement; other end square. | 24 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 3 1/4" |
| Pedestal base capsPineBoth ends cut at 22-1/2° off square, long-point to long-point. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 44" |
| Pedestal foot blocksPine | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" |
| BeamsPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 70" |
| Tabletop frame, longPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 94 1/4" |
| Tabletop frame, shortPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 47 1/4" |
| Tabletop frame, cross membersPine | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 36 1/4" |
Buy 17 boards at 8 ft.
5 boards
Build six main leg pieces (two per pedestal) with glue and 2" brad nails, keeping all outside edges flush. Confirm a 2x6 can slide into each opening as you build — this is what the beams will thread through later, so a tight or loose fit here is much easier to fix now than after the pedestals are finished. Build this for all three legs.
Use 2-1/2" self-tapping screws to attach the first layer of outer 2x4 boards to the top and bottom of each leg assembly. Repeat for all three pedestal legs.
Attach the decorative cross support pieces with 2" nails and glue — double-check your miter saw is actually set to 22-1/2°, not the more common 45°, before running through all 24 pieces.
Attach the remaining bottom cap piece to each leg assembly with 2" nails and glue.
Mark the beam locations for all three pedestals and slide the finished legs onto the beams. Attach with 2" nails or screws.
Build the tabletop frame using pocket holes, then attach your chosen tabletop material to the frame with 2" screws and glue.
Center the three-pedestal base under the tabletop frame and attach with 2-1/2" screws.
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10 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →