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Frameless ("euro-style") cabinetry drops the face frame entirely, which means the plywood itself is the finished surface — and that raises the bar on precision. The plan calls out that the rip width on your plywood strips must be EXACTLY consistent, in capital letters, and that's not overcaution: with no face frame to hide a discrepancy, an inconsistent rip shows up as a visible step where two cabinets meet.
Edge banding goes on before assembly, not after, ironed onto every exposed plywood edge on the sides and bottom while the pieces are still flat and easy to work — trying to iron banding onto an assembled cabinet's inside corners is a losing fight. The center support does double duty tying the front support to the bottom, which is what keeps a sink base's typically wider, unsupported front opening from racking under the weight of a full sink and countertop. Because it's frameless, this cabinet needs 1/2" overlay concealed euro hinges specifically — not the standard 1-1/4" overlay hinges used on face-frame cabinets — since the mounting geometry is different.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", cabinet grade or hardwood, sheetRip to exactly 23" wide strips — consistency matters more than usual on a frameless build. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ftTop, back, front, and center supports. | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ftSpecies-matched to your doors if staining, or paint-grade for painted doors. | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x6, 8 ftToekick build-up. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", sheetBack panel. | 1 each |
| Edge banding | 1 roll |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Staples or finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Cabinet door, full overlay | 2 each |
| Concealed euro hinges, 1/2" overlay framelessNot interchangeable with standard face-frame overlay hinges — mounting geometry differs. | 2 pair |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPlywood, 3/4", cabinet grade or hardwood | 2 | 3/4" × 23" × 29 1/4" |
| BottomPlywood, 3/4", cabinet grade or hardwood | 1 | 3/4" × 23" × 34 1/2" |
| Top and back supportsPine, 1x4, 8 ft | 3 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Front supportPine, 1x4, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 24 3/4" |
| Back panelPlywood, 1/4" | 1 | 1/4" × 29 1/4" × 36" |
Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
If you're finishing with stain, iron edge banding onto every front-exposed plywood edge of the sides and bottom now, while the pieces are still flat and easy to work — this is a losing fight once the cabinet is assembled.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the bottom edges of the bottom panel and attach to the two sides with 1-1/4" pocket screws and wood glue.
Attach the top support pieces, placing the pocket holes facing up for both strength and concealment.
Attach the back support — this is what the cabinet will hang from on the wall — tying it into the top support as well. Then attach the center support between the front support and the bottom; this is what keeps a sink base's wider, unsupported front opening from racking under a loaded countertop.
Starting from the factory edges of the plywood, attach the back panel to the rear of the cabinet with glue and 3/4" staples or nails.
Size your doors to the opening and attach using 1/2" overlay concealed euro hinges rated for frameless cabinets — standard face-frame overlay hinges will not mount correctly on this cabinet.
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