Essential Outdoor Chair (for Standard Cushions)

Attach an armrest across two legs, then position the seat stringer — 5° slope, HIGH side toward the front leg — and screw it to both legs, two screws per joint.

Build the mirror arm frame directly on top of the completed one, stringers matched up. Stacked parts can't drift; measured parts can. Check that the pair are mirrors, not twins, before moving on.

Stand the two arm frames stringer-high-side down, block them steady, and screw one 20" slat across the front of the stringers — two screws per joint. The floppy pair becomes a chair skeleton on this one board.

Set the BACK slat first, positioned for your actual cushions — the source used 21-1/2" of seat depth for 20" cushions, because the back cushion folds at the seam and eats an inch and a half. Then space the middle slats evenly by eye and screw everything down.

Pocket-hole the back panel's ends (1-1/2" setting, two holes per end) and attach between the arm frames with 2-1/2" screws. Set your back cushion in place and cut the two back uprights to suit it — remembering the 1-1/2" 2x2 cap still to come — then attach each upright at three points: sides, backrest, and back slat. Those three-point connections are the chair's rigidity.

Cap the top with the 2x2, sand everything, and stain. Floppy cushions? Add more back slats — the frame doesn't mind.