Emily Nightstand

Depending on your leg hardware and how it mounts, it may be easier to attach the turned legs to the base before the carcass is fully assembled — check your hardware's instructions and decide before you go further.

Edge-band the front edges of the side panels. If you're a perfectionist, shave about 1/8" off the front edge on the table saw first to allow for the edge banding's thickness — otherwise the banded edge sits slightly proud. If you're painting instead, fill the front edges of the plywood with wood filler, sand, and paint over it.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the insides for attaching the top later. Attach the side panels to the base along the bottom inside edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Attach the top support pieces at the front and back, drilling pocket holes facing upward for the top in the next step.

Attach the top to the sides, then apply the cove moulding trim around the top and bottom edges with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue where it fastens, brad nails and glue for the moulding itself.

Build the drawer box to fit your actual drawer slides and opening — the dimensions here assume slides that need 1/2" clearance on each side (1" total) and an opening true to width; verify both before cutting. Place the pocket holes on the outside faces so they're hidden by the drawer face later. Attach the 1/4" plywood bottom with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Install the drawer inset 3/4" and place the drawer face on top, nailing it in a few spots (avoiding where hardware will go), keeping an even 1/8" gap on top and sides. Remove the drawer and add a few 1-1/4" screws from the back side for a permanent hold.

Attach the drawer bottom trim with an even 1/8" gap above it, matching the gaps on every other side of the drawer. Use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Cut the two doors from 3/4" plywood and hang with hinges.

Create a pattern for the curved moulding accents and cut them from 1/4" plywood with a scroll saw, in one continuous pass per curve where possible — restarting mid-curve is the most common way to leave a visible seam. Attach the finished moulding to the drawer face and doors with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Attach the 1/4" plywood back with 3/4" brad nails and glue, then sand everything and finish.