Emily Dresser

Depending on your bun feet's mounting hardware, it may be easier to attach them now or later — check the hardware and decide before assembling further.

For a stained finish, apply edge banding to the front edges of the three upright plywood panels and trim off the excess. Attach the panels to the bottom with 3/4" pocket holes, and drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top later. Keep every pocket hole hidden.

Carefully attach all front trim and back support pieces with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Getting the spacing right between the 1x2 front pieces matters more than any other measurement on this build — the drawer faces have to fit cleanly into those gaps.

Apply edge banding around the front and sides of the top if using it. Attach the top through the pocket holes drilled earlier with 3/4" pocket hole screws.

Build all six drawers to fit their actual openings and your drawer slides. If you're using white Euro bottom corner-mount slides, the 1/4" plywood bottom can simply be nailed on; side-mount slides require the bottom to be screwed on instead.

Install all six drawers inset 3/4" from the front of the cabinet, leaving room for the drawer faces to sit inset once attached.

Cut each drawer face to fit its opening with a 1/8" gap on all sides. Nail on with 1-1/4" nails from the front, centered in the opening, then remove the drawer and add a few screws from the inside for a secure hold.

Cut the moulding pieces from 1/4" plywood with a scroll saw or jigsaw following your pattern — long strips are 1/2"-wide 1/4" plywood, though other moulding profiles work too. Attach to the drawer faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue.

Attach the 1/4" plywood back with 3/4" nails and glue. Add cove moulding trim around the top and bottom as desired, sand every surface, finish, and attach knobs or handles.