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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Rip 22" off the sheet first — top, bottom, and sides come from this piece. From the next section cut the drawer faces so their grain runs with the cabinet. Then rip the remainder into an 11-1/2" strip and two 6" strips for the drawer parts. If you're using plywood for the footer, rip a 1-1/2" strip too. Mismatched grain reads as 'off' even to people who can't name why, so follow the cut order.
Build the box from the top, bottom, and sides. With a pocket-hole jig, set it for 3/4" stock and use 1-1/4" screws; otherwise use a countersink bit, 2" screws, and glue, and check hard for square — a racked carcass fights every drawer you fit into it.
Square the box up and glue-and-nail the 1/4" back on — the back is what locks it square, so don't skip it. Then attach the footer around the base with pocket screws or corner braces, recessed for a toe kick.
Assemble the three drawer boxes — one deep file drawer, two shallow — with 1/4" bottoms captured or screwed in. Mount them on the slides, bottom drawer first and as low as possible, then work up. Set every box 3/4" inset from the front to leave room for the faces.
Line up the drawer faces with even reveals all around and tack them with 1-1/4" finish nails. Then pull each drawer and drive screws from inside the box into the face to fix it for good. Even gaps are what make it look built rather than bodged.
Iron on the veneer edge banding over every exposed plywood edge, trim it flush, and sand the whole cabinet smooth. Because it's low-formaldehyde hardwood ply, a simple clear finish shows the veneer off and keeps the office air clean.