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The deck is one wide 2x4 frame decked in 1x4 boards, sized for two people to lounge side by side rather than two separate chairs pushed together. Build the frame first with the longer screws and exterior glue, attach the legs keeping the back rest bay clear, then add 2x2 cleats inside that bay flush to the bottom — these are what the hinged backrest mechanism will attach to later.
The reclining mechanism is the same hinge-prop-stop-block system as this catalog's single chaise lounge, just built at double width to support two backrests side by side: 2x2 pieces hinged to 2x4 prop-up spacers let the whole backrest kick up and rest against stop blocks at whatever angle you've positioned them. Build the two back pieces with their own 1x4 slats attached to 2x2 backrest supports, then attach the prop-ups before hinging the entire assembly to the main frame.
Position the stop blocks only after test-fitting the backrest closed — the plan is explicit that you need to confirm the back can fully close with the blocks in place before committing to their final position. A generous supply of roughly 16"-long 1x4 offcuts is left over from this build, which is exactly the material this catalog's Adirondack side tables and footstool are sized around, if you want a matching set.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft | 7 each |
| 2x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1x4, 8 ft | 13 each |
| Heavy duty exterior hinges, 3 in | 6 each |
| Exterior self-tapping deck screws, 2-1/2" to 3-1/4" | 50 each |
| Exterior self-tapping screws, 1-3/4" to 2-1/4" | 150 each |
| Exterior wood glue | 5 oz |
| Exterior penetrating wood stain or paint | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Frame sides2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 76 1/2" |
| Frame front/back and supports2x4, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 44 1/2" |
| Legs2x4, 8 ft | 6 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Backrest cleats2x2, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 27" |
| Long deck pieces1x4, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 79 1/2" |
| Center deck pieces1x4, 8 ft | 11 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 49 1/2" |
| Back slats1x4, 8 ft | 11 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 30" |
| Backrest supports2x2, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 43 1/2" |
| Prop-up spacers2x4, 8 ft | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 10" |
| Stop blocks2x2, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 3" |
Buy 21 boards at 8 ft.
5 boards
3 boards
13 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the frame from the sides and front/back pieces using the longer screws, two per joint, with exterior wood glue.
Attach the legs with the longer screws, keeping the back rest bay clear of legs.
Attach the 2x2 cleats inside the back rest area, flush to the bottom, with the longer screws and glue.
Adjust the frame for square. Glue and attach the long deck pieces to the top with the shorter screws, then space out and attach the center deck pieces.
Attach the back slats to the backrest supports with the shorter screws. Attach the prop-up spacers to the backrest supports with the longer screws, then hinge the remaining prop-up piece to the spacers.
Attach the prop-up assemblies to the back pieces with the shorter screws.
Hinge the entire back rest assemblies to the main frame.
Test-fit the backrests closed, then position the stop blocks inside the frame at the desired reclining angles and attach with the longer screws.
Sand all surfaces and apply exterior stain or paint.
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