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This trunk is built bottom-up: a pocket-holed 1x6 panel forms the base, the side panels are measured and cut to match the actual bottom's width rather than a fixed number, and the front and back panels close the box after the sides are on. Building each face as its own flat panel first, then attaching it to the growing box, keeps every joint square and accessible in a way that's much harder to manage once the trunk is fully enclosed.
The 2x2 base frame lifts the trunk off the floor and gets pocket holes drilled only halfway through from the underside, so the screws bite deep without ever coming through the visible top or sides. Lid supports go on the underside of the top before it's hinged — attach those before the hinges go on, not after.
Toy box lid supports are a genuine safety feature, not an accessory. A heavy hinged lid with no support falls under its own weight, and a trunk sized for kids' toys is a trunk sized for kids to be reaching into when that happens. Install and adjust the supports so the lid holds its position at any angle, and use a real piano hinge or three sturdy butt hinges rather than a single small hinge that wasn't sized for a lid this size and weight.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x6, 5 ftCan substitute 10 ft boards cut in half. | 13 each |
| 1x8, 5 ft | 1 each |
| 2x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 100 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Piano hinge or 3" butt hinges (three) | 1 each |
| Toy box lid supportsSafety-critical — prevents the lid from falling under its own weight. | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom1x6, 5 ft | 3 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 58 1/2" |
| Sides1x6, 5 ftMeasure and cut to match the actual width of your assembled bottom. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Front, back, and top1x6, 5 ft | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 60" |
| Bottom frame, long2x2, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 58 1/2" |
| Bottom frame, sides2x2, 8 ftMeasure and cut to fit the assembled bottom. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Lid support cleats2x2, 8 ftMeasure and cut to fit. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 14" |
Buy 14 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
11 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the bottom boards and join them together with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Measure the actual width of the assembled bottom, cut the side boards to match, build the two side panels, and attach them to the bottom.
Build the two front and back panels and attach them to the bottom and sides, closing the box.
Drill halfway through the base frame pieces from the underside, then attach them to the bottom of the trunk with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Attach the lid support cleats to the underside of the top panel before hinging it — these are what will carry the toy box lid supports.
Attach the top to the trunk body with the piano hinge or three butt hinges along the back edge. Install the toy box lid supports and adjust them so the lid holds its position safely at any angle — this is a genuine safety feature, not an optional detail. Sand and finish.
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