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This table's whole structure is one big X, built first on a flat, level surface — the two long center 2x4s cross and pocket-screw together at the middle, and everything else in the frame radiates outward from that single joint. Getting that center X square and flat matters more than any other single step, since every spoke and every tabletop board's angle is referenced from it.
Once the X is down, the remaining framing spokes fill in around it at 22-1/2° between each "spoke" — pocket holes or metal brackets both work. Lay out every tabletop board before screwing any of them down permanently; boards vary in actual width board to board, and the plan explicitly recommends cutting the seat boards as you go rather than trusting the cut list numbers for them.
One structural tip from the source is worth following exactly: rotate the full-length seat support 90° from the full-length tabletop support, rather than stacking them in the same orientation — that cross-orientation is what gives the underside its real strength. If leg room feels tight once it's built, a documented reader modification extends the seat-support spokes 4" all the way around and moves the innermost seat board to the outside edge instead — a legitimate variant on the same base structure, not a different table.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft | 10 each |
| 2x6, 8 ftTabletop and seat boards — cut as you go, boards vary in actual width. | 15 each |
| Self-tapping exterior screws, 2-1/2" to 3", star drive | 200 each |
| Medium grit sandpaper | 6 each |
| Exterior finish suitable for fences | 1 qt |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Table framing, center spoke2x4, 8 ftBoth ends tapered at 30° off square, not parallel to each other. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 62" |
| Table framing, half spokes2x4, 8 ftOne end at 30° off square. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 30 1/2" |
| Table framing, point spokes2x4, 8 ftOne end at 30° off square, other end pointed at 45° off square. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29 15/16" |
| Tabletop boards, shortest2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 22.5° off square. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 4 9/16" |
| Tabletop boards, short2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 22.5° off square. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Tabletop boards, medium2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 22.5° off square. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 14 7/16" |
| Tabletop boards, medium-long2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 22.5° off square. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 19 5/16" |
| Tabletop boards, long2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 22.5° off square. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 24 1/4" |
| Tabletop boards, longest2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 30° off square, parallel to each other. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 32 15/16" |
| Seat framing, center spoke2x4, 8 ftBoth ends tapered in at 30° off square. Rotate 90° from the tabletop's full-length spoke for cross-strength. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 95" |
| Seat framing, half spokes2x4, 8 ftOne end at 30° off square. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 46 3/4" |
| Seat framing, point spokes2x4, 8 ftOne end at 30° off square, other end pointed at 45° off square. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 46 7/16" |
| Seat boards, angled2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 22.5° off square. Measure and cut as you go. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 31 13/16" |
| Seat boards, parallel2x6, 8 ftBoth ends at 30° off square, parallel to each other. Measure and cut as you go. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 36 3/4" |
Some parts are longer than a 8 ft board, so there is no honest board count to show here. Open the board plan to pick a longer stock length — it names every part that does not fit.
16 boards
On a very flat, level surface, join the center spoke pieces into a big X with pocket hole screws and glue at the center joint. Metal straps or plates can substitute, but only on the underside.
Carefully cut and add the remaining framing spokes at 22-1/2° between each spoke, using pocket holes or metal brackets.
Lay out all the tabletop boards first and adjust as necessary so they meet in the center of the spokes. Screw down with two predrilled screws per board.
Mark all your leg locations. Start with the longest remaining support, rotated 90° from the tabletop's full-length support for added strength. Add the two supports cut straight on one end, then the remaining lower supports, the same way the tabletop framing went together.
Flip the table back over and screw down the seat boards, working from the outside in this time. Measure and cut each seat board as you go rather than trusting the cut list exactly, since board widths vary.
Sand the whole table and apply an exterior finish rated for fences or other outdoor lumber.
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6 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →